Malbec is, if you will, the "fifth Beatle", the fifth grape in the cocktail that was Bordeaux, the primary grape (but) in the almost unheard of "black wine" of Cahors, where it is known as the Auxerrois or Cot. Finally, in Argentina, it seems reasonable to say, Malbec has found its true home. And for those disaffected lovers of Bordeaux (yeah, it's the price of the stuff, alright) Argentine Malbec may just be all the love you need. Produced from the fruit of own-rooted vines grown in once alluvial soils (medium-depth with a bit of clay and some smooth round pebbles) at elevations of 1,000 mètres at Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, Doña Paula (100%) Malbec is decidedly Claret-like in style but, then, this is where is where the old-world meets new. Fleshy purple red in color; there's a cool sophistication on the nose with notes of spiced plum, cedar, pencil shavings and an inkling of vanilla and spice from barrel aging; velvety palate feel with new world richness and ripeness of fruit; finely resolved tannins and just the gentlest astringency on the finish making this a perfect choice for pairing with fine red meats or soft-ripening cheeses.

While Malbec can certainly reasonably lay claim to the title of national wine grape of Argentina, Syrah works well there, too. And Syrah gets a big bold plus in our book for working well with others: with Grenache in the southern Rhône Valley of France, with Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia and, yes indeed, with Malbec in Argentina. This 2005 Doña Paula Shiraz-Malbec is characteristically cool on the nose with scents of grape pomace, blueberry, blackberry and bramble; somewhere between Claret and the south of France and the new world on the tongue; demonstrates the sophistication of the gentleman farmer, but one who doesn't mind rolling up his sleeves and getting his hands full of wonderful wine-growing dirt. This one's for real and, at its price, a steal!