Tasting Notes from Allen Meadows' burghound.com

Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
If the Côte de Bouguerots is the biggest wine in 2011 then the Preuses is arguably the most aromatically complex with a broad ranging nose of perfumed and ripe scents of oyster shell, sea water, citrus and white flowers. The silky and refined flavors are wonderfully seductive with an intense minerality to the austere, bone dry and balanced finish that exudes hints of saline and iodine. In sum, this is flat out stunning. Rated 94-96. Don't miss!

Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte de Bouguerots
This is also completely classic and even more aromatically complex with a plethora of sea shore nuances to the cool green fruit scents. On the palate this is dense, powerful and quite serious with brooding flavors that brim with dry extract that buffers the firm acid spine on the intensely mineral-driven and explosively long finish. This is the biggest wine in the range yet impeccably well-balanced and if not exactly refined, then certainly not rustic either. A 'wow' wine. Rated 93-96. Don't miss!

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
This was quite closed and somewhat difficult to read but aggressive swirling grudgingly liberated ripe aromas of sea breeze, pear, lemon rind, oyster shell and mineral reduction plus an abundance of typical floral scents. The large-scaled flavors are overtly powerful and impressively concentrated as there is plenty of palate staining dry extract that also buffers the very firm acidity that supports and shapes the gorgeously precise finish. This explosively long effort possesses exquisite balance and the tightly wound flavors are going to need at least a decade to completely bloom. A knock out. Rated 93-96. Don't miss!

Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
This could be from nowhere else but Chablis with its ripe yet cool, airy and refined nose of green fruit, mineral reduction, sea breeze and iodine. There is positively gorgeous intensity and laser-like precision to the rich but wonderfully vibrant flavors that display moderate austerity on the focused and remarkably persistent finish. This is a really lovely combination of power and refinement. Rated 93-95. Don't miss!

Chablis Grand Cru Bougros
This also displays an abundance of classic Chablis character with iodine, tidal pool and ripe green fruit aromas that precede dense, muscular and overtly powerful flavors that culminate in a saline-infused and impressively persistent finish where a touch of wood surfaces. As Bougros typically is, this is a big wine with almost painful intensity. While this slightly smoky effort isn't particularly refined, it is certainly dramatic and imposing. Rated 92-94. Don't miss!

Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
This is noticeably riper than the Bougros with hints of exotic yellow fruit along with hints of spice and mineral reduction. Here too there is impressive size and weight to the solidly well-concentrated big-bodied flavors that possess an opulent mid-palate before ending in a mineral-driven and intensely saline-infused finish that just goes on and on. Rated 92-94. Don't miss!

Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent
This is quite aromatically similar to the Fourchaume though here there is also a discreet hint of sulfur and the wood is all but invisible. There is fine concentration to the powerful, suave and intensely stony flavors that possess superb finishing complexity on the balanced, clean, very dry and energetic finish. As is often the case, this delivers grand cru quality. Rated 92-94. Don't miss! Outstanding.

Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
An expressive, airy and cool nose features notes of stone, sea water, floral aromas and white orchard fruit. This is also exceptionally rich and concentrated yet the medium weight flavors remain light and pure with absolutely no trace of heaviness on the mouth coating and stunningly persistent finish. This is beautifully refined yet there is no absence of muscle or punch. Rated 91-94. Sweet spot. Outstanding.

Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
Saltwater, floral notes and subtle spice nuances characterize the aromas that slide gracefully into rich, concentrated and relatively refined medium-bodied flavors that display excellent delineation on the solidly powerful and mineral-driven flavors. This is dry and pure if not quite as complex as the domaine version of the Montmains. Rated 90-92. Outstanding.

Chablis (Domaine)
As with the two previous wines there is a trace of post-bottling sulfur in evidence though it's not enough to significantly mar the attractively complex nose that is classic Chablis in character. There is very good richness to the detailed but opulent flavors that remain focused and display plenty of finishing minerality. There is really lovely intensity to the dry and precise finish and overall, this offers terrific quality for a villages level wine. Recommended. Rated 90. Outstanding. Top value.

‑ burghound.com Issue 48, Fourth Quarter, 2012