Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise is the largest appellation in all of Burgundy with over 650 hectares under vine. Domaine Faiveley's village Mercurey is sourced from 5 parcels spread throughout the appellation for a little over 38 hectares. The oldest plantings of these vines dates back as far as 1962. The soils are primarily clay and limestone. The grapes are hand harvested, sorted and pressed on site in Mercurey. Following vinification the young wines are brought to the domaine's cellars in Nuits‑Saint‑Georges for aging in a combination of stainless steel and oak for 12 to 14 months prior to release. Lovely translucent deep ruby red in color with aromas of fleshy ripe Pinot Noir berries and suggestion of dried cherries and baking spices along with a hint of black pepper and the vineyard floor itself; supple, almost silken on the tongue, then showing a crisp taut berryish acidity and gentle structure of fine tannins carrying joyous Pinot Noir flavor long on to the mouthwatering finish.

Claudie Jobard (daughter of Laurence Jobard, former œnologue at Joseph Drouhin) is now bottling the wines of what was Domaine Gabriel Billard, following her mother's recent retirement. The wines remain, in our estimation, among the most prized of values in red Burgundy. This Beaune 1er Cru Les Epenottes (so named for the woody/thorny vegetation that once grew here) is located just above the D974 near the turnoff to the right (the D973) as one heads toward Pommard by automobile from Beaune. According to Mme. Jobard, « a single plot but of two different ages of vines give this wine une personnalité constante with aromas of ripe fruit and very soft tannins ». The vintage of 2021 was cooler and has yielded many wines like this with more precise, even pristine and more recognizably Pinot Noir aromas suggestive of taut tart cherry, baking spices, orange peel, fine winegrowing earth and a hint of woodsmoke; taut and firm on entry, then spreading out more broadly on the palate with innervating fruity acidity, gentle astringency and fine tannins (so very useful at the dinner table) carrying delicate flavors long. This delicious wine has us contemplating a certain poulet rôti, haricots verts et pommes de terre festonnées (roast chicken, green beans and scalloped potatoes).

The late great man of wine, Alexis Lichine, once described the folks of Beaujolais as « convivial, round‑faced, rosy‑cheeked people » who « seem to have been created for the making of wine ». And, although we wouldn't necessarily describe him as round‑faced, we've been following the work of Stéphane Aviron for the last few years with increasing interest and appreciation. He seems to be able to translate the specific qualities of the various Beaujolais crus with a focus on deliciousness and urgency and that certain je ne sais quoi. The cru of Saint‑Amour is located in the north of Beaujolais where the soils begin their transition from granitic to clay/limestone and where you begin to see more Chardonnay under cultivation. This Saint‑Amour is, of course, produce of 100% Gamay fruit; deep, just translucent ruby in color with almost irresistible aromas that all but blurt out Beaujolais what with spice and berry and bramble and a certain drink me — now (!) —  quality; full, frontal, fleshy Gamay fruit that happily fills the mouth, tantalizes and vivifies the palate with crunchy berry fruity acidity that causes some serious salivation, warms the very cockles of the heart and could likely even change one's disposition from gloom to glee. C'mon downtown and get some (while supplies last)!

Produce of 100% Chardonnay fruit from vines an average age of over 40 years and planted to the limestone marl soils typical of Chablis; vibrant yellow/gold with glints of green in color, aromas redolent of ripe orchard fruits, sweet citrus, crushed sea shells and a freshening summer's rain on limestone; a touch richer than a typical vintage of the wine with an easygoing intensity and purity of flavor and a smooth texture on the tongue; delicious, if also entirely gulpable dry white wine.

Produce of 100% Chardonnay fruit from the Mâconnais area in southern Burgundy; vinified without oak to retain the wine’s elegant aromas and clean, fresh character; pale yellow/gold in color with ultra-fresh aromas suggesting, flesh of crisp apple and pear, just a hint of citrus and a fresh delicate green herbal quality (comme cerfeuil); cool and crisp on the tongue, ultra-refreshing, chalky dry with an easy-going minerality and refreshing berryish acidity; a completely delicious quaff of crisp, clean Burgundian Chardonnay.

The lovely village of Saint‑Vérand (note the different spelling) is located half‑hidden amongst the hills in the Mâconnais region of southern Burgundy, between Pouilly‑Fuissé and the Beaujolais. Its Jurassic chalky soils are a continuation of the limestone strata found in the Côte d'Or and are ideal for growing Chardonnay grapes. Harvested by hand the grapes are immediately and gently pressed, then passed into stainless steel to undergo a slow and cool fermentation. The wine is bottled the following spring to retain its inherent freshness, fruitiness and roundness. Green‑gold in color with at once discreet, pure and vibrant Chardonnay aromas suggesting flesh of crisp green apple, citrus and stone; fine, elegant Chardonnay flavors are refreshingly crisp and mineral, but at the same time broadening on the tongue, becoming more sumptuous and satisfying, delivering a nice wallop of excellent dry white Burgundy wine.

Produce of 100% Chardonnay fruit from the Clos de l'Ermitage Saint-Claude vineyard in Prissé near the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson. The vines here are 70 years of age on average, planted to argilo-calcaire soils at elevations of 200 mètres with southerly exposition that yield a richer, somewhat more opulent wine, one that is aged en cuve (read, no oak; quite apparently, no oak aging is necessary with this excellent raw material). Brilliant yellow/gold in color with fetching southern Burgundian Chardonnay aromas suggestive of orchard fruits, beeswax, citrus zest, summer rain-moistened limestone and, with air, a hint of cerfeuil (Thevenet themselves note aromas of linden and jasmine); ample, just rounded on the tongue and yet poised and light on its feet, both satisfying and refreshing with a certain sapidity and the nerve of crisp citrusy acidity keeping things fresh to the finish. Simply lovely southern Burgundian white wine.

Produce of 100% Chardonnay from the rolling hills of the Mâcon-Villages. Aromas of just ripe golden berries and lemon pith give way to a delicate white floral tone. A moment in the glass and some air give way to aromas of crushed rocks and salted almonds. The palatte is oh-so inviting. Soft and supple, with a warm golden fruit character. Cooling, fresh acidity carries the day and lets the lingering mineral tension draw you back for another sip.

Aromas of glittering green berries and fresh Anjou pear are enervated by a salty sea-spray minerality and a deeper sense of petrichor. The wine smells fresh, brisk even. It does not disappoint on the palatte. Crisp tart berry fruit and green apple skin are carried on a energetic, vertical current. The typically suave texture of Chardonnay is buttressed by a jolt of fresh acidity and a lingering sense of limestone minerality.

From the sun-drenched limestone and granite hills of Pouilly-Fuissé, the aromas of ripe golden berries, warm orchard fruit and citrus oil speak to the ripeness and generosity characteristic of the appellation. The palate tells a different story. Full of tension and freshness, this wine has balance on it's mind over decadence. Still generous with a burst of chardonnay fruit and a hint of toasted baguette but it's the mineral limestone character that has the lasting impact.

Produce of 100% Gamay noir à jus blanc hand-harvested from vines planted to granitic soils an average age of 45 years with south/southest exposures; ruby/purple in color with aromas redolent of ripe dark berries and crushed stone (Henry noted suggestion of raspberry and petrichor); vibrantly fruity/grapey and energetic on the tongue, with a gentle nudge from prickly tannins and fresh crisp fruity acidity. Delicious, have another glass kind of stuff.

A touch more reserved aromatically at first, this blossomed with some air; Henry noted a more floral quality to go along with the aromas of ultra ripe dark berry; richer, more polished and voluminous on the tongue, more of a gushing fruit quality without sacrificing any of its inherent freshness.

Produce of 100% Gamay noir à jus blanc hand‑harvested from 50 year‑old vines planted with south/southeast exposures on granitic and alluvial sand soils at the foot of the chapel on the hill of Fleurie; just translucent ruby in color; more obviously Burgundian, more highly‑sophisticated in aroma with suggestion of violet, berry, spice and earth; supple, silky on entry with gentle intensity of fruit on the tongue, holding its shape well with fine dusty tannins lending structure and stretching fine spicy/berry/earthy flavors out long on the finish.

A ruby, full-bodied wine with great minerality and silky tannins developing iris, faded rose, spicy and ripe fruit aromas. Grown on south south-east facing slopes in Manganese rich granitic soil. Perhaps because of this profile, this is our most popular restaurant wine from the Colette lineup, and indeed it can be poured alongside strip steak, game meats and mature cheeses.

What an absolute joy a nice, fresh glass of real Chablis can be. And the style of Joseph Drouhin seems a perfect fit for this fabled and much‑copied appellation (rappelez, l'imitation est la forme de flatterie la plus sincère …). Fresh, typically Drouhin reserve and refinement, with discreet aromas suggestive of flesh of fresh green apple, crushed seashells and a cool of the early morning harvest of fresh green grapes (some among our group of tasters found this 2022 vintage perhaps a touch more tropical; Henry noted a salted melon quality); lean and crisp but with a just ample quality on the tongue, fresh and clean and vibrant, almost thirst quenching dry white wine. Vive le vrai Chablis !

The vineyard parcels of Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly are predominantly south-facing and are planted entirely with Gamay vines that average 50 years of age on steep (48% grade) slopes of blue volcanic rock comprised of plagioclase and biotite on the Mont Brouilly. Importer Kermit Lynch has famously described the wine as resembling "a country squire who is not afraid to get his boots muddy. Handsome, virile, earthy, and an aristocrat." Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly is long among our favorite of the Beaujolais crus. Translucent purple ruby to fuchsia at the edges in color with fermentive and fleshy, gently reduced post‑volcanic Gamay fruit suggestive of a compote de baies mélangées together with notions baking spices, violet and an underpinning of crushed stone (graphite and granite); crunchy berry Beaujolais again (Henry found it more lithe and taut and all the while silky) on the palate, with a refreshing, bursting, vibrant mouthwatering intensity of flavor that is just irresistible.

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) is shaping up brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries and plums mingled with sweet spices, orange rind and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's bright and precise, with a layered core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. Rated (93‑95). ‑ William Kelley, robertparker.com January, 2022

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with crisp blackberry, briary, crushed stone and light eucalyptus aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, fleshy and harmonious with a touch of spice towards its very cohesive and sustained finish. Classy. Drink 2026‑2055. Rated (93‑95). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com November, 2021

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) is very promising, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, cherries, warm spices, candied peel, rose petals and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, layered and muscular, with serious concentration and rich reserves of ripe, powdery tannin, it concludes with a bright, precise finish. Rated (93‑95+). ‑ William Kelley, robertparker.com January, 2021

Slightly more subtle, though still moderately prominent, wood sets off the very spicy, cool and elegant aromas that consist mostly of red and dark currant and iron-inflected earth. There is very good volume and verve suffusing the refined and classy middle weight flavors that brim with minerality and dry extract where the latter helps to buffer the very firm tannic spine shaping the compact, powerful and strikingly long finale. This excellent effort will likely need a minimum of 10 years before it can be reasonably approached and should reward up to 20 years of keeping. Drink 2036+. Rated (92‑95). ♥. Outstanding. ‑ Allen Meadows' burghound.com April, 2021

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is surprisingly reticent at first, offering quite strong earthy aromas and gradually opening with sage, thyme and mint. I feel that compared to the other Clos Saint-Jacques, the aromatics never quite click into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with the best backbone of the four Gevrey Premier Crus tasted from Jadot. Spicy black pepper and clove notes furnish the middle and the finish, which feels sustained and persistent, yet I wonder whether it will have the unadulterated charm of the Les Cazetiers when in bottle. We will find out soon. Drink 2024‑2042. Rated (92‑94). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com December, 2020

The 2020 Corton-Pougets Grand Cru (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is excellent, mingling aromas of cherries and raspberries with notions of raw cocoa, orange rind, warm spices and smoke. Full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with powdery tannins, bright acids and a long, resonant finish. Rated (93‑95). ‑ William Kelley, robertparker.com January, 2022

The 2020 Corton-Pougets Grand Cru is often one of Jadot’s strongest cards amongst the Côte de Beaune reds and this is no different. It has a captivating bouquet with earthy red fruit, graphite, just a faint hint of menthol that emerges with time. The palate is medium‑bodied with sappy red fruit, lightly spiced with a dash of white pepper towards the sustained finish. It will require several years in bottle to show its best, but it will be worth waiting for. Drink 2027‑2050. Rated (94‑96). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com November, 2021

The 2021 Beaune Clos des Ursules 1er Cru has a lovely, floral bouquet with wilted rose petals infusing the vivacious red berry fruit. Always a classy number, even in a tough vintage like 2021. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It's very lithe and smooth, with tart red berry fruit and a judicious dash of spice towards the finish. Lovely. Drink 2026‑2045. Rated (90-92). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com November, 2022

An intensely earthy nose is comprised by notably ripe dark currant aromas that are cut with underbrush, spice and a whiff of wood toast and the sauvage. There is an attractive freshness and plenty of vivacity to the velvet-textured full-bodied and overtly muscular flavors that possess terrific punch on the beautifully long, youthfully austere and notably firm finish. I like the overall sense of complexity and this too should age effortlessly. Drink 2035+. Rated (92‑94). Sweet spot. ‑ Allen Meadows' burghound.com January, 2019

The 2017 Corton Clos des Corton Faiveley Grand Cru comes from a monopole of around 3 hectares. It has quite a powerful bouquet of assertive red currant and cranberry fruit, fig jam and a hint of dates. The medium‑bodied palate displays supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity. Quite stocky in style, with a saline, quite persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. Drink 2024-2040. Rated (91-93). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com January, 2019

Dedicated to Jeanne Thomas Picamelot, Louis' wife, this cuvée is said to combine a feminine elegance and strong personality. We can but smile and nod in complete and utter agreement. 'Happy wife, happy life' comes to mind. This is a vintage‑dated sparkling wine, but we tend not to focus on that. Produce of mostly Chardonnay with a slight admixture of Aligoté, all hand‑harvested from the Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits (the best addresses for white grapes from this part of Burgundy). Vivid green/gold in color with generous and persistent tiny bubbles and aromas ever so fresh and inviting, suggesting white flower, citrus zest and fine wine‑friendly limestone‑rich soils; full and round, powerful, yes, and eventually sumptuous on the palate, this wine both refreshes and satisfies. Picamelot themselves recommend it as a perfect Crémant pour le gastronome (it works especially well at the dinner table, that is). Our wine buyer simply adores this Crémant with the dim sum (everything, really) at Lin Asian Bar + Dim Sum and Qi Austin.

Maison Vitteaut‑Alberti was founded in 1951 in Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise by M. Lucien Vitteaut and his wife née Alberti, who chose to specialise in the production of sparkling white wines using the Méthode Champenoise. Today they are operating among the most highly‑regarded sparkling wine operations in Burgundy from Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise, about twenty minutes south of Beaune. The Cuvée Agnès (Agnès is the granddaughter of the founders, now active in the company) is a blend of a strict selection of 100% Chardonnay grapes coming from the Côte Chalonnaise and the Côte de Beaune. Brilliant yellow/gold in color with just a wealth of fine bubbles; ultra‑fresh aromas titillate the nostrils with suggestion of stone fruits, citrus blossom, ultra‑fine brioche just in the oven; ultra‑fine on the palate, too, with a delicate froth, poised, balanced, almost spherical in shape; then, a freshness of flavor that resonates long. Among the finest of Crémants de Bourgogne that we've encountered. And we've encountered, mmmm, quite a few.