What an absolute joy a nice, fresh glass of real Chablis can be. And the style of Joseph Drouhin seems a perfect fit for this fabled and much‑copied appellation (rappelez, l'imitation est la forme de flatterie la plus sincère). Fresh, typically Drouhin reserve and refinement, with discreet aromas suggestive of flesh of fresh green apple, crushed seashells and a cool of the early morning harvest of fresh green grapes; lean and crisp but with a just ample quality on the tongue, fresh and clean and vibrant, almost thirst quenching dry white wine. Vive le vrai Chablis !

It’s here, in Fleys (pronounced Flay-ee), that I live with Lucie, my partner at home and at work. We inhabit the house in where I was born, in the very street where my grandparents and great-grandparents were living. Every morning, to get to my vines on the hillside, I walk through the tiny streets, I pass by women and men who have watched me grow up. Hello Charly, hello Robert, good day Marguerite, hello Madeleine! I love this life: farmer, winemaker, villager, familiar. 180 of us live tightly knit around our church steeple. It’s a lively place, youthful and friendly. I am a part of this age-old Chablis countryside-risen from the ancient earth folds where the ocean hid shell and fossil treasures for me to find under my plough when labouring in spring. It’s my countryside, a land where my children now grow up, a land of peaceful days that give me faith in the future. ‑ message from Charly Nicolle

Step out of the automobile and into the vineyards of Chablis on a wet, cold rainy day in January, and you'll likely pull back a cubic foot or few on your shoe of sticky clay (Kimmeridgian, to be exact) with a measure of former mollusks interspersed from give or take, the last 150 million years or so, mollusks that have been giving it up for all this time to provide among the most special dry white wine terroirs ever on this orb; and the wine is no mere fluke of nature: produce of 100% certified organically farmed and hand-harvested Chardonnay fruit from 16 hectares of vineyards near the villages of Chablis, Fleys, Beru and Chichée, fermented on native yeasts and aged 10-12 months on its lees; yellow/gold with emerald reflections and tell-tale aromas that speak of summer flowers and crushed sea shells, fresh yellow/green/gold berries in the cool of the late summer/early autumn morning waiting giddily for their transformation from mere grape squeezins to something literally transcendent and transportive; almost weightless on the tongue with a gentle nudge of fresh berryish acidity tantalizing, stirring salivation and leaving the palate wholly refreshed with ethereal crisp Chablis/Chardonnay flavor; per aspera ad astra, through the difficulties or rough terrain to the stars, or in this case, through the mud and the muck to the sublime, wine-wise, at least.

Pouilly-Fuissé is surely one of the most picturesque and, frankly astonishing areas in terms of its commanding views of and around les deux roches Solutré and Vergisson in the Mâconnais in southern Burgundy. It also produces some of the most sumptuous and exciting of Chardonnay wines in all of Burgundy. Louis Jadot purchased Domaine J. A. Ferret in 2008 following the passing and with the blessing of the widow, Mme. Collette Ferret, who wanted the domaine to remain in good stead. Shimmering platinum/yellow/gold in color with pristine alluring aromas that are both floral and mineral with suggestion of something like freshly baked baguette with a slather of sweet unsalted French butter and, of course, ripe green/gold Chardonnay berries so caringly transformed (Chris noted a fresh herbal quality like that of fennel, tarragon or chervil); slips seamlessly onto the tongue, ample, gently rich, lavish even, and at the same time without apparent weight, then fresh and flush with flavor of fleshy berry and a vibrancy and mouthwateringness to the finish. This is for sure some 1st class/2nd glass kind of white Burgundy. And, it's on sale. (!) Regularly $62.50 the bottle, on sale now at:

The lovely village of Saint‑Vérand (note the different spelling) is located half‑hidden amongst the hills in the Mâconnais region of southern Burgundy, between Pouilly‑Fuissé and the Beaujolais. Its Jurassic chalky soils are a continuation of the limestone strata found in the Côte d'Or and are ideal for growing Chardonnay grapes. Harvested by hand the grapes are immediately and gently pressed, then passed into stainless steel to undergo a slow and cool fermentation. The wine is bottled the following spring to retain its inherent freshness, fruitiness and roundness. Green‑gold in color with at once discreet, pure and vibrant Chardonnay aromas suggesting flesh of crisp green apple, citrus and stone; fine, elegant Chardonnay flavors are refreshingly crisp and mineral, but at the same time broadening on the tongue, becoming more sumptuous and satisfying, delivering a nice wallop of excellent dry white Burgundy wine.

Produce of 100% Chardonnay fruit from the Clos de l'Ermitage Saint-Claude vineyard in Prissé near the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson. The vines here are 70 years of age on average, planted to argilo/calcaire soils at elevations of 200 mètres with southerly exposition that can yield a richer, somewhat more opulent wine; that said, this wine seems to demonstrate a freshness, a lightness of being and remarkable purity that are notable and delightful; aged en cuve (read, no influence of oak); brilliant light yellow/gold in color with fetching southern Burgundian Chardonnay aromas suggestive of orchard fruits (like flesh of green apple), light green/gold berries, white flower honey in beeswax, citrus zest, summer rain‑moistened limestone and, with air, a hint of something like cerfeuil (Thevenet themselves note aromas of linden and jasmine); ample, just rounded on the tongue and yet poised and light on its feet, both satisfying and refreshing with a certain sapidity and the nerve of crisp taut berryish acidity keeping things fresh to the finish. Simply lovely southern Burgundian white wine.

Produce of 100% Chardonnay fruit from the Mâconnais area in southern Burgundy; vinified without oak to retain the wine’s elegant aromas and clean, fresh character; pale yellow/gold in color with ultra‑fresh aromas suggesting flesh of crisp apple and pear, just a hint of citrus and a fresh delicate green herbal quality (comme cerfeuil); cool and crisp on the tongue, ultra‑refreshing, chalky dry with an easy‑going minerality and refreshing berryish acidity; a completely delicious quaff of crisp, clean Burgundian Chardonnay.

The vineyard parcels of Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly are predominantly south-facing and are planted entirely with Gamay vines that average 50 years of age on steep (48% grade) slopes of blue volcanic rock comprised of plagioclase and biotite on the Mont Brouilly. Importer Kermit Lynch has famously described the wine as resembling "a country squire who is not afraid to get his boots muddy. Handsome, virile, earthy, and an aristocrat." Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly is long among our favorite of the Beaujolais crus. Translucent purple ruby to fuchsia at the edges in color with fermentive and fleshy, gently reduced post‑volcanic Gamay fruit suggestive of a compote de baies mélangées together with notions baking spices, violet and an underpinning of crushed stone (graphite and granite); crunchy berry Beaujolais again (Henry found it more lithe and taut and all the while silky) on the palate, with a refreshing, bursting, vibrant mouthwatering intensity of flavor that is just irresistible.

Claudie Jobard (daughter of Laurence Jobard, former œnologue at Joseph Drouhin) is now bottling the wines of what was Domaine Gabriel Billard, following her mother's recent retirement. The wines remain, in our estimation and in and that of our discerning clientèle, among the most prized of values in red Burgundy. This Bourgogne Côte d'Or Milliane is produce of 100% Pinot Noir fruit from a small plot of old vines near the village of Pommard and is named after the great grandmother of Claudie Jobard, whose nickname was « Milliane ». It is also meant to serve as a salute to women in the wine business. Alluring limpid ruby red in color with aromas suggestive of dried cherries, baking spices, the petrichor of parched Pommardienne soils after a summer's freshening rainfall, then mushroom and forest floor; gently rich on entry with nicely rounded edges and a freshness, nerve and spine and a delicately penetrating flavor; textbook Burgundian Pinot Noir for a most reasonable price.

The Beaune premier cru of Les Epenottes is so named for the woody/thorny vegetation that once grew here and is located just above the D974 near the turnoff to the right (the D973) as one heads toward Pommard by automobile from Beaune. According to Mme. Jobard, «a single plot but of two different ages of vines give this wine une personnalité constante with aromas of ripe fruit and very soft tannins». The vintage of 2021 was cooler and has yielded many wines like this with more precise, even pristine and more recognizably Pinot Noir aromas suggestive of taut tart cherry, baking spices, orange peel, fine winegrowing earth and a hint of woodsmoke; taut and firm on entry, then spreading out more broadly on the palate with innervating fruity acidity, gentle astringency and fine tannins (so very useful at the dinner table) carrying delicate flavors long. This delicious wine has us contemplating a certain poulet rôti, haricots verts et pommes de terre festonnées (roast chicken, green beans and scalloped potatoes).

From that which is arguably our most important source of fine Côte d'Or Pinot Noir and from what is also arguably the best source for value in Burgundian Pinot Noir, these are, respectively, the estimable firm of Maison Louis Jadot and the vineyards of Beaune itself. Beaune, the town, represents the heart and soul of the Côte d'Or (the golden slope) and, that said, the heart and soul of Burgundy. In all the hubbub, the circle, the inner circle, the comfy hotels, the myriad fine restaurants, the shopping, the actual wines of Beaune can sometimes be overlooked. But in our ever thirsty search for value in fine red Burgundy, we are most always drawn lovingly, caressingly, back to Beaune and its environs. We've just finished a brief fling with the 2022 vintage of this wine, the 2023 is arriving just in time to keep us all Beauned up. A happy mingling of wines from among the some 42 different premiers crus of Beaune (and, yes, that is more than any other climat in Burgundy); alluringly translucent ruby/cherry skin red in color with come hither Burgundian Pinot Noir aromas suggestive of ripe cherry and baking spices, candied orange peel and the finest winegrowing soil above limestone on planet earth; slips smooth and silken onto the tongue (the 2023 demonstrating just a bit more richness than the previous vintage), with flavors so deliciously typical of red Burgundy echoing those first captivating aromas with just the gentlest chalky tannins giving lift and carrying flavor long and ever so subtly on the tongue. This has us recalling the immortal words of one of our dear departed Burgundy‑loving friends 'forever in search of the perfect breakfast Pinot Noir' … Saints be praised, we may at last have found it (and from Beaune, no less, so for lunch and dinner, too!). Regularly $50.00 the bottle, on sale now at:

According to Mme. Jobard, « … a remarkable terroir, facing south/southeast and planted with century‑old vines. It produces a tender, rich, concentrated wine that stands the test of time. A wine that should be allowed to age a little to fully open up, allowing the tannic texture to round out. » The climat of Les Charmots is located just north of the village. The soil is primarily clay and limestone. The vineyard is currently being converted to organic farming and is worked by horse. The harvest is manual, that is, the grapes are hand‑picked. Translucent dark ruby at the core to a tawnier ruby to even clear at the edges; deep‑pitched aromas suggest a great winegrowing earth and tarry dried cherry and berry with a hint of rhubard and roasted coffee bean; firm, dusty berryish onto the palate (Brian also noted the sense of cherry pit), then vigorous, almost boisterous on the tongue with tannins more rich and velvety than the typical Burgundian silky, causing this taster to crave grilled red meats, poulet de Bresse rôti, fat cheeses and the like; Pommard is almost always a more potent/robust Burgundy than most and this excellent premier cru demonstrates just that.

The 2017 La Grande Rue has a deep, introspective bouquet, offering more black fruit than red; touches of oyster shell and seaweed percolate through with time. The palate is where the quality shines through, in the filigreed tannins and the wonderful sense of symmetry. Fresh as a daisy without compromising intensity, especially on the pixelated finish, which seems to go on forever. Brilliant. This far exceeded my expectations. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting. Drink 2027‑2065. Rated 96. ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com, September, 2021

The 2020 Corton-Pougets Grand Cru (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is excellent, mingling aromas of cherries and raspberries with notions of raw cocoa, orange rind, warm spices and smoke. Full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with powdery tannins, bright acids and a long, resonant finish. Rated (93‑95). ‑ William Kelley, www.robertparker.com January, 2022

The 2020 Corton-Pougets Grand Cru is often one of Jadot’s strongest cards amongst the Côte de Beaune reds and this is no different. It has a captivating bouquet with earthy red fruit, graphite, just a faint hint of menthol that emerges with time. The palate is medium‑bodied with sappy red fruit, lightly spiced with a dash of white pepper towards the sustained finish. It will require several years in bottle to show its best, but it will be worth waiting for. Drink 2027‑2050. Rated (94‑96). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com November, 2021

The 2018 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru has an attractive, pure bouquet of red currant and cranberry fruit laced with wilted rose petals and crushed stone. The palate is smooth on the entry with sappy red berry fruit, harmonious and fleshy. This is the best of four Faiveley reds that I tasted from this vintage and it shows the best composure and complexity on the finish. Excellent. Drink 2024‑2045. Rated 93+. ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com October, 2020

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) is shaping up brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries and plums mingled with sweet spices, orange rind and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's bright and precise, with a layered core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. Rated (93‑95). ‑ William Kelley, robertparker.com January, 2022

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with crisp blackberry, briary, crushed stone and light eucalyptus aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, fleshy and harmonious with a touch of spice towards its very cohesive and sustained finish. Classy. Drink 2026‑2055. Rated (93‑95). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com November, 2021

For our part, we've found of late that it just doesn't pay to try and do Champagne on the cheap, that we're better off looking outside that jaded geography to find as fine if not finer sparkling wine indeed for the bubbles buck that needs to stretch on out a bit. The fine Crémant de Bourgogne sparkling wines of Louis Picamelot are just such a find. The House of Picamelot was founded in 1926 and is located in Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise in Burgundy. The winemaking facility is located at and makes good use of an old quarry site just outside the village, with the quite cool cellars dug into the solid rock there. This cuvée, the Louis Picamelot Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Les Terroirs, represents just over 2⁄3 of the production here and, as such, is thankfully most always available now here in beautiful downtown Austin! Produce of about 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Aligoté, all hand‑picked from the Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. Really lovely slate of aromas suggestive of toast and orchard fruits, say pêche de vigne, apricot, green apple then, closer to the ground, fresh grapes on chalky limestone soils; full, vibrant, expansive mousse that then spreads itself richly on the tongue with flavors of toasted orchard fruits a most expressive and satisfying reprise of those first whiffs. This is ultra‑satisfying and flavorful sparkling wine for a very attractive price. Champagne on the cheap? Nah! This is Crémant de Bourgogne that'll do you proud. Do come and get it!

And simply superb in pink as well. Produce of 100% Côte Chalonnaise Pinot Noir fruit. The color here is a lovely rose to sunset orange pink at the edges; aromas that define allure, you can almost smell the refreshment to come, with a pinch of spice and a kiss of red berry and a real sense of that wonderful stony Burgundian winegrowing soil underpinning; this one has both body and refreshingness as well as something that simply piques, perhaps pinches, but certainly imbues the imbiber with the feeling of having consumed ever so well with a nervy freshness and spiced red berry flavors that linger in most welcome reprise. This is like bottled joie de vivre. Get some!