The 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another brilliant effort from Fèvre's immensely able winemaker, Didier Seguier, and his team. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, fresh bread, oyster shell, orange zest and crisp orchard fruit, it's full‑bodied, satiny and muscular, with a concentrated, tensile profile and a long, intensely saline finish. It's the broadest and most powerful wine in the range, while remaining quintessentially Chablisien. Drink 2030‑2055. Rated 96. ‑ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate July, 2022

Claudie Jobard (daughter of Laurence Jobard, former œnologue at Joseph Drouhin) is now bottling the wines of what was Domaine Gabriel Billard, following her mother's recent retirement. The wines remain, in our estimation and in and that of our discerning clientèle, among the most prized of values in red Burgundy. This Bourgogne Côte d'Or Milliane is produce of 100% Pinot Noir fruit from a small plot of old vines near the village of Pommard and is named after the great grandmother of Claudie Jobard, whose nickname was « Milliane ». It is also meant to serve as a salute to women in the wine business. Alluring limpid ruby red in color with aromas suggestive of dried cherries, baking spices, the petrichor of parched Pommardienne soils after a summer's freshening rainfall, then mushroom and forest floor; gently rich on entry with nicely rounded edges and a freshness, nerve and spine and a delicately penetrating flavor; textbook Burgundian Pinot Noir for a most reasonable price.

The Beaune premier cru of Les Epenottes is so named for the woody/thorny vegetation that once grew here and is located just above the D974 near the turnoff to the right (the D973) as one heads toward Pommard by automobile from Beaune. According to Mme. Jobard, « a single plot but of two different ages of vines give this wine une personnalité constante with aromas of ripe fruit and very soft tannins ». The vintage of 2021 was cooler and has yielded many wines like this with more precise, even pristine and more recognizably Pinot Noir aromas suggestive of taut tart cherry, baking spices, orange peel, fine winegrowing earth and a hint of woodsmoke; taut and firm on entry, then spreading out more broadly on the palate with innervating fruity acidity, gentle astringency and fine tannins (so very useful at the dinner table) carrying delicate flavors long. This delicious wine has us contemplating a certain poulet rôti, haricots verts et pommes de terre festonnées (roast chicken, green beans and scalloped potatoes).

According to Mme. Jobard, « … a remarkable terroir, facing south/southeast and planted with century‑old vines. It produces a tender, rich, concentrated wine that stands the test of time. A wine that should be allowed to age a little to fully open up, allowing the tannic texture to round out. » The climat of Les Charmots is located just north of the village. The soil is primarily clay and limestone. The vineyard is currently being converted to organic farming and is worked by horse. The harvest is manual, that is, the grapes are hand‑picked. Translucent dark ruby at the core to a tawnier ruby to even clear at the edges; deep‑pitched aromas suggest a great winegrowing earth and tarry dried cherry and berry with a hint of rhubard and roasted coffee bean; firm, dusty berryish onto the palate (Brian also noted the sense of cherry pit), then vigorous, almost boisterous on the tongue with tannins more rich and velvety than the typical Burgundian silky, causing this taster to crave grilled red meats, poulet de Bresse rôti, fat cheeses and the like; Pommard is almost always a more potent/robust Burgundy than most and this excellent premier cru demonstrates just that.

The 2017 La Grande Rue has a deep, introspective bouquet, offering more black fruit than red; touches of oyster shell and seaweed percolate through with time. The palate is where the quality shines through, in the filigreed tannins and the wonderful sense of symmetry. Fresh as a daisy without compromising intensity, especially on the pixelated finish, which seems to go on forever. Brilliant. This far exceeded my expectations. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting. Drink 2027‑2065. Rated 96. ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com, September, 2021

From that which is arguably our most important source of fine Côte d'Or Pinot Noir and from what is also arguably the best source for value in Burgundian Pinot Noir, these are, respectively, the estimable firm of Maison Louis Jadot and the vineyards of Beaune, itself. Beaune, the town, represents the heart and soul of the Côte d'Or (the golden slope) and, that said, the heart and soul of Burgundy. In all the hubbub, the circle, the inner circle, the comfy hotels, the myriad fine restaurants, the shopping, the actual wines of Beaune can sometimes be overlooked. But in our ever thirsty search for value in fine red Burgundy, we are most always drawn lovingly, caressingly, back to Beaune and its environs. This 2022 vintage Beaune Premier Cru of Louis Jadot is a recent and most welcome such discovery. A happy mingling of wines from among the some 42 different premiers crus of Beaune (and, yes, that is more than any other climat in Burgundy), alluringly translucent ruby/cherry skin red in color with come hither Burgundian Pinot Noir aromas suggestive of ripe cherry and baking spices, candied orange peel and the finest winegrowing soil above limestone on planet earth; slips smooth and silken onto the tongue, with flavors so deliciously typical of red Burgundy echoing those first captivating aromas with just the gentlest chalky tannins giving lift and carrying flavor long and ever so subtly on the tongue. This has us recalling the immortal words of one of our dear departed Burgundy‑loving friends 'forever in search of the perfect breakfast Pinot Noir' … Saints be praised, we may at last have found it (and from Beaune, no less, so for lunch and dinner, too!) Regularly $50.00 the bottle, on sale now at:

The 2021 Beaune Clos des Ursules 1er Cru has a lovely, floral bouquet with wilted rose petals infusing the vivacious red berry fruit. Always a classy number, even in a tough vintage like 2021. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It's very lithe and smooth, with tart red berry fruit and a judicious dash of spice towards the finish. Lovely. Drink 2026‑2045. Rated (90-92). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com November, 2022

The 2020 Corton-Pougets Grand Cru (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is excellent, mingling aromas of cherries and raspberries with notions of raw cocoa, orange rind, warm spices and smoke. Full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with powdery tannins, bright acids and a long, resonant finish. Rated (93‑95). ‑ William Kelley, www.robertparker.com January, 2022

The 2020 Corton-Pougets Grand Cru is often one of Jadot’s strongest cards amongst the Côte de Beaune reds and this is no different. It has a captivating bouquet with earthy red fruit, graphite, just a faint hint of menthol that emerges with time. The palate is medium‑bodied with sappy red fruit, lightly spiced with a dash of white pepper towards the sustained finish. It will require several years in bottle to show its best, but it will be worth waiting for. Drink 2027‑2050. Rated (94‑96). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com November, 2021

An intensely earthy nose is comprised by notably ripe dark currant aromas that are cut with underbrush, spice and a whiff of wood toast and the sauvage. There is an attractive freshness and plenty of vivacity to the velvet-textured full-bodied and overtly muscular flavors that possess terrific punch on the beautifully long, youthfully austere and notably firm finish. I like the overall sense of complexity and this too should age effortlessly. Drink 2035+. Rated (92‑94). Sweet spot. ‑ Allen Meadows' burghound.com January, 2019

The 2017 Corton Clos des Corton Faiveley Grand Cru comes from a monopole of around 3 hectares. It has quite a powerful bouquet of assertive red currant and cranberry fruit, fig jam and a hint of dates. The medium‑bodied palate displays supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity. Quite stocky in style, with a saline, quite persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. Drink 2024-2040. Rated (91-93). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com January, 2019

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) is shaping up brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries and plums mingled with sweet spices, orange rind and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's bright and precise, with a layered core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. Rated (93‑95). ‑ William Kelley, robertparker.com January, 2022

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with crisp blackberry, briary, crushed stone and light eucalyptus aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, fleshy and harmonious with a touch of spice towards its very cohesive and sustained finish. Classy. Drink 2026‑2055. Rated (93‑95). ‑ Neal Martin, vinous.com November, 2021

What an absolute joy a nice, fresh glass of real Chablis can be. And the style of Joseph Drouhin seems a perfect fit for this fabled and much‑copied appellation (rappelez, l'imitation est la forme de flatterie la plus sincère …). Fresh, typically Drouhin reserve and refinement, with discreet aromas suggestive of flesh of fresh green apple, crushed seashells and a cool of the early morning harvest of fresh green grapes (some among our group of tasters found this 2022 vintage perhaps a touch more tropical; Henry noted a salted melon quality); lean and crisp but with a just ample quality on the tongue, fresh and clean and vibrant, almost thirst quenching dry white wine. Vive le vrai Chablis !

Produce of 100% Chardonnay sourced from 7 of 9 of the newly-minted premiers crus of Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais region of southern Burgundy. Aged in a combination of demi-muids and foudres (read larger neutral oak barrels). Yellow/gold in color with green reflections and subtle aromas suggestive of just baking apple, citrus preserve and a lightly toasted baguette, What an absolute joy a nice, fresh glass of real Chablis can be. And the style of Joseph Drouhin seems a perfect fit for this fabled and much‑copied appellation (rappelez, l'imitation est la forme de flatterie la plus sincère …). Fresh, typically Drouhin reserve and refinement, with discreet aromas suggestive of flesh of fresh green apple, crushed seashells and a cool of the early morning harvest of fresh green grapes (some among our group of tasters found this 2022 vintage perhaps a touch more tropical; Henry noted a salted melon quality); lean and crisp but with a just ample quality on the tongue, fresh and clean and vibrant, almost thirst quenching dry white wine. Vive le vrai Chablis !

From the sun-drenched limestone and granite hills of Pouilly-Fuissé, the aromas of ripe golden berries, warm orchard fruit and citrus oil speak to the ripeness and generosity characteristic of the appellation. The palate tells a different story. Full of tension and freshness, this wine has balance on it's mind over decadence. Still generous with a burst of chardonnay fruit and a hint of toasted baguette but it's the mineral limestone character that has the lasting impact.

The lovely village of Saint‑Vérand (note the different spelling) is located half‑hidden amongst the hills in the Mâconnais region of southern Burgundy, between Pouilly‑Fuissé and the Beaujolais. Its Jurassic chalky soils are a continuation of the limestone strata found in the Côte d'Or and are ideal for growing Chardonnay grapes. Harvested by hand the grapes are immediately and gently pressed, then passed into stainless steel to undergo a slow and cool fermentation. The wine is bottled the following spring to retain its inherent freshness, fruitiness and roundness. Green‑gold in color with at once discreet, pure and vibrant Chardonnay aromas suggesting flesh of crisp green apple, citrus and stone; fine, elegant Chardonnay flavors are refreshingly crisp and mineral, but at the same time broadening on the tongue, becoming more sumptuous and satisfying, delivering a nice wallop of excellent dry white Burgundy wine.

Produce of 100% Chardonnay fruit from the Clos de l'Ermitage Saint-Claude vineyard in Prissé near the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson. The vines here are 70 years of age on average, planted to argilo/calcaire soils at elevations of 200 mètres with southerly exposition that can yield a richer, somewhat more opulent wine; that said, this wines seems to demonstrate a freshness, a lightness of being and remarkable purity that are notable and delightful; aged en cuve (read, no aging in small oak (pièces); brilliant light yellow/gold in color with fetching southern Burgundian Chardonnay aromas suggestive of orchard fruits (like flesh of green apple), light green/gold berries, white flower honey in beeswax, citrus zest, summer rain‑moistened limestone and, with air, a hint of something like cerfeuil (Thevenet themselves note aromas of linden and jasmine); ample, just rounded on the tongue and yet poised and light on its feet, both satisfying and refreshing with a certain sapidity and the nerve of crisp taut berryish acidity keeping things fresh to the finish. Simply lovely southern Burgundian white wine.

Aromas of glittering green berries and fresh Anjou pear are enervated by a salty sea-spray minerality and a deeper sense of petrichor. The wine smells fresh, brisk even. It does not disappoint on the palatte. Crisp tart berry fruit and green apple skin are carried on a energetic, vertical current. The typically suave texture of Chardonnay is buttressed by a jolt of fresh acidity and a lingering sense of limestone minerality.

Produce of 100% Chardonnay fruit from the Mâconnais area in southern Burgundy; vinified without oak to retain the wine’s elegant aromas and clean, fresh character; pale yellow/gold in color with ultra-fresh aromas suggesting, flesh of crisp apple and pear, just a hint of citrus and a fresh delicate green herbal quality (comme cerfeuil); cool and crisp on the tongue, ultra-refreshing, chalky dry with an easy-going minerality and refreshing berryish acidity; a completely delicious quaff of crisp, clean Burgundian Chardonnay.

Produce of 100% Chardonnay from the rolling hills of the Mâcon-Villages. Aromas of just ripe golden berries and lemon pith give way to a delicate white floral tone. A moment in the glass and some air give way to aromas of crushed rocks and salted almonds. The palatte is oh-so inviting. Soft and supple, with a warm golden fruit character. Cooling, fresh acidity carries the day and lets the lingering mineral tension draw you back for another sip.

Produce of 100% Gamay noir à jus blanc hand-harvested from vines planted to granitic soils an average age of 45 years with south/southest exposures; ruby/purple in color with aromas redolent of ripe dark berries and crushed stone (Henry noted suggestion of raspberry and petrichor); vibrantly fruity/grapey and energetic on the tongue, with a gentle nudge from prickly tannins and fresh crisp fruity acidity. Delicious, have another glass kind of stuff.

A touch more reserved aromatically at first, this blossomed with some air; Henry noted a more floral quality to go along with the aromas of ultra ripe dark berry; richer, more polished and voluminous on the tongue, more of a gushing fruit quality without sacrificing any of its inherent freshness.

The vineyard parcels of Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly are predominantly south-facing and are planted entirely with Gamay vines that average 50 years of age on steep (48% grade) slopes of blue volcanic rock comprised of plagioclase and biotite on the Mont Brouilly. Importer Kermit Lynch has famously described the wine as resembling "a country squire who is not afraid to get his boots muddy. Handsome, virile, earthy, and an aristocrat." Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly is long among our favorite of the Beaujolais crus. Translucent purple ruby to fuchsia at the edges in color with fermentive and fleshy, gently reduced post‑volcanic Gamay fruit suggestive of a compote de baies mélangées together with notions baking spices, violet and an underpinning of crushed stone (graphite and granite); crunchy berry Beaujolais again (Henry found it more lithe and taut and all the while silky) on the palate, with a refreshing, bursting, vibrant mouthwatering intensity of flavor that is just irresistible.

Maison Vitteaut‑Alberti was founded in 1951 in Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise by M. Lucien Vitteaut and his wife née Alberti, who chose to specialise in the production of sparkling white wines using the Méthode Champenoise. Today they are operating among the most highly‑regarded sparkling wine operations in Burgundy from Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise, about twenty minutes south of Beaune. The Cuvée Agnès (Agnès is the granddaughter of the founders, now active in the company) is a blend of a strict selection of 100% Chardonnay grapes coming from the Côte Chalonnaise and the Côte de Beaune. Brilliant yellow/gold in color with just a wealth of fine bubbles; ultra‑fresh aromas titillate the nostrils with suggestion of stone fruits, citrus blossom, ultra‑fine brioche just in the oven; ultra‑fine on the palate, too, with a delicate froth, poised, balanced, almost spherical in shape; then, a freshness of flavor that resonates long. Among the finest of Crémants de Bourgogne that we've encountered. And we've encountered, mmmm, quite a few.