For our money, Sauvignon Blanc has been and remains underrated among California white wines. But it brings a good lot of refreshment to the party, especially in these parts and in this time of year. Vivid yellow-gold in color with glints of green; there's no oak to speak of here, more stone than gooseberry on the nose, more summer rain on gravel than grass or green, oh, maybe there's a little hint of mint there; subtle, crisp, ultra-refreshing and light on its feet, 2nd glass kind of stuff; white wine to beat the heat, porch poundable, too.

Trefethen have been producing this wine since all the way back in the mid-1970s. We've been reminded of it more recently by their dynamo sales representative and our longtime friend, Ms. Jane Anthenien, herself a brilliant chef, gastronome and wine lover of the erste Klasse; this is like drinking from a cold mountain spring on a hot summer's day, only its Riesling: Yay! Dry Riesling: Yay!; almost clear in color, such a brilliant light yellow gold with fresh and inviting aromas suggestive of citrus flower, citrus zest and flesh of crisp cool green apple (we've heard suggestion of slate but, nah, there's no slate in Napa, California, it's just Riesling on an alluvial fan); there is a certain crystalline purity on the palate, there is body and breadth, an engagingness, but the wine remains light on its feet, completely dry, tingly, balanced, almost spherical in shape and woops (it just slips right down the ol' gullet); put a nice chill on this and take some delicious late summer Riesling refreshment.

This classic blend of Nalle estate old vine Zinfandel and a field blend including Petite Sirah and Carignane from the Bernier-Sibary 'Zinyard' is among our longtime favorites from California, only recently again available in Texas. The estate vines are 90 plus years old as of this writing, gnarly, bush vine things that they are; the Bernier-Sibary vines are planted to slightly acidic, fine loamy soils formed from sandstone and which yield small berries with tempered acidity and weighty tannin structure; the resulting wine is a lovely translucent medium ruby in color with utterly compelling aromas suggestive of ripe berry, bramble, cherry, a hint of toast and a parched northern California vineyard floor; crisp, almost crunchy in texture with taut berry fruit, plenty of nerve and pomegranate-like fresh mouthwatering acidity that keeps everything atwitter on the tongue on and on and long to the finish.

This is another classic if, perhaps, more approachable Montelena Napa Valley Cabernet; deep, deep ruby in color with aromas of macerated berries, toasted oak, graphite, parched vineyard floor and more; full and smooth on entry, cool and mouthfilling without heaviness, with gentle dusty tannins and a certain intensity of delicate flavor and freshness from crisp acidity that leaves the mouth watering; and, after all this, there is an overarching sense of elegance and restraint at play here. Lovely wine. Regularly $60.00 the bottle, on sale now at:

Bruce Neyers has a storied career in the wine trade. And he is one heck of a storyteller too, in the very best sense of the word. Formerly winemaker at Joseph Phelps Vineyards, he helped craft among California's most memorable and iconic red wines, read Joseph Phelps Insignia. In 1991 he joined Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, travelling the larger world of wine serving for years as their National Sales Manager. He and his wife Barbara have now sort of semi-retired back in Napa Valley where they preside over their own Neyers Vineyards production. Having spent a good amount of time in Burgundy, Bruce brings a wealth of experience and, no doubt, expectation to this bottling. This Chardonnay «304» is produce of an heirloom selection of Chardonnay from a cool vineyard site in the Carneros District that gives naturally low pH and high acidity. The soils here are covered with rocks—it was once a creek bed. Initially somewhat austère aromatically, the wine would seem to introduce itself as French (this taster might have guessed it from the Mâconnais region of southern Burgundy, only later to learn that the inspiration is actually from further north in Chablis). Fermented entirely in stainless steel, one can almost smell the cool, nervy, vibrant Chardonnay grapes waiting giddily in the early morning for hand-harvesting and the eventual alchemy to follow. Ian noted green apple and hazelnut on the nose. Our winebuyer picked up notes of something cool and almost minty. And that same cool, nervy vibrancy is apparent on the tongue as well, with the call and response, the lively interplay between fresh fruit and acidity making for a delicious and refreshing white wine-drinking experience. And that's what it's all about!

Vibrant and distinctive, with snappy cranberry and cherry flavors that are laced with smoky anise and white pepper notes, picking up speed toward refined tannins. Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Drink now through 2026. 3,000 cases made. Rated 91. - Tim Fish, Wine Spectator

Ed Sbragia honed his winemaking skills under the legendary Myron Nightingale at Beringer Vineyards. Eventually, he took over as winemaster there and for years crafted, among other excellent wines, the highly acclaimed Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon that were Beringer Private Reserve, in the process becoming the stuff of legend himself. In 2006 Ed and his wife, Jane, purchased the old Lake Sonoma Winery to fulfill a dream and a promise to his father to start a family winery. His son, Adam, has also now joined as winemaker. Sbragia's excellent Home Ranch Chardonnay is produce of their family estate vineyards, in close proximity to Dry Creek and the Russian River. It is aged sur lies for 11 months in French oak barrels, 50% of which were new. The wine underwent 100% malolactic fermentation. On the nose, the wine is immediately reminiscent of some of the great California Chardonnay wines of old, but with more of a sense of freshness what with aromas suggestive of orchard fruits, honeysuckle, toasted baguette and more; the wine has a glycerol and deliciously slippery feel on the tongue, ample in weight, full, rounded and toasty, but with a nice fresh acidity that keeps everything in balance and moving forward. Sbragia themselves refer to this as "Ed’s distinctive and acclaimed style: big, rich, balanced and polished." Superb value, too!

Gundlach Bundschu, established in 1858, was Bonded Winery Number 64 in California. For over 150 years now, as they say 'since buffalo roamed the plains, through an earthquake, prohibition, beat poetry and disco' Gundlach Bundschu has been growing world class wine grapes and producing world class wines. The winery operation itself was resurrected by fifth generation family member, Jim Bundschu, in the early 1970s. Gundlach Bundschu have since been producing superlative wines from their Rhinefarm Vineyard, some 300 acres of contiguous vineyards in the southeastern corner of Sonoma Valley. And they’ve been producing this fine Sonoma Valley Merlot since before anybody cared about Merlot, and then when they did, then didn’t, did, didn’t and now again do. Gundlach Bundschu Merlot transcends fashion. Lovely ruby red in color; aromas suggesting a whole panoply of fleshy red and blue fruits like plum, cherry, cranberry and pomegranate, with hints of savory herbs like oregano and sage; elegantly textured, supple and ripe and round on the tongue with a nice nudge of fruity acidity that keeps flavors bursting fresh and lively into the long, warming embrace of a finish. It’s time for wine.

Scot Bilbro has taken over for his late father and his brothers and is now running the show at Marietta Cellars. Old Vine Red Lot Number 70 is now on the scene. The wine is tweaked ever so slightly drier than in the past, perhaps now ever the more appealing to both west coast and European wine tastes. Produced mainly from Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignane primarily from vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino counties, Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red replicates the old Cal‑Ital field blends there. Alluring deep ruby purple in color, with Zinfandel-influenced aromas suggesting dark ripe juicy berries with hints of the parched dusty northern California vineyard floor; at once fresh and vibrant, smooth and slippery on the tongue with just an inkling of fine-grained tannins that keep it all on the up and over. And, by all means, do take note of its continuing brilliantly true blue in terms of value!

While it's no secret that we quite typically look to the south of France for most of our rosé needs, its certainly also nice when something from closer to home can turn our heads. And this lovely new entry from Marietta Cellars in northern California makes a crisp splash with its aromatic allure, its refreshingness and restraint. Marietta Cellars Old Vine Rosé is produced from fruit of old vine Syrah, Grenache Noir and Grenache Gris, including some of the oldest examples of these vines in northern California; salmon-pink in color with a hint of wild strawberry on the nose; supple on entry, then building in nerve and vibrancy and freshness on the tongue, leaving one begging for another pull; a quite perfect choice to foil the heat of summer weather 'round here. And, it's Marietta Cellars. So, do take note of the value!

The 2017 Christo, Marietta's Syrah/Grenache-based red, is another compelling wine in this range. Inky red/purplish berry fruit, rose petal, mint, spice and floral notes are front and center. Sumptuous and racy, the 2017 is so inviting from the very first taste. Rated (90-93). - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com April, 2020