Produce of 100% Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards near Le Mesnil‑sur‑Oger, in the heart of the Côte des Blancs — holy ground for lovers of the finest Champagne. This bottling represents some 2⁄3 of the production of the very well‑run cooperative that is Champagne Le Mesnil. Brilliant platinum/gold in color, this Brut Blanc de Blancs has a lovely harmony of elements, fresh and most enticing and inviting aromas suggestive of melon, cool of the morning grape plucked from the vine, buttered biscuit and flower pollen; nice medium‑full mousse, then expansive on the tongue and supremely flavorful, its crisp fresh chalky dry finish just begging another delicious pull.

Jean Laurent is a grower‐producer in the tiny village of Celles‐sur‐Ource, south of Epernay in the Côte des Bar. The estate is comprised of 35 acres of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc vines planted to the distinctive kimmeridgian chalky soils. These vineyards average 25 to 30 years in age, with the oldest parcels planted more than 60 years ago. While Jean’s family has grown wine in Celles‐sur‐Ource for many generations, his grandfather Pierre was the first to start making Champagne. Jean’s father Raymond took production to the next level and began commercializing their sparkling wines in earnest in 1952. Now third‐generation owner of the estate, Jean is committed to sustainable agriculture, carefully limiting his vineyard treatments, using solar panels to generate electricity and reclaimed rainwater for winery operations. His delicious Blanc de Blancs is platinum/yellow in color with a fine stream of the tiniest bubbles; alluring aromatic freshness suggestive of orchard fruits, candied lemon peel, pristine fresh hazelnut cream and gently toasted pastry dough; nice nerve and energy on the tongue, chalky stone and grape, then a gentle creaminess and certain breadth of texture (Henry noted it was 'poised, but not too challenging on the palate'), finishing mouthwateringly fresh and flavorful.

Taittinger utilize some 40% of Chardonnay fruit in crafting their maison Brut La Française, lending a certain refinement to the wine, characteristic of the house style. Subtle, pale gold in color with a fine steady bead of ultra fine bubbles; delicate lemon and limestone aromas, with nuance of stone fruits and pastry dough; a fine froth broadens out balanced and well-rounded, almost spherical on the tongue with delicate toast and citrus flavors; finishing deliciously crisp and dry. Très élégant, trés raffiné, très Taittinger!

Champagne Ayala was established in Aÿ in 1860 in the heart of the vineyards of Champagne. Independent and family‑owned, it is still today an archetype of a great and historic house, producing top quality sparkling wines which are enjoyed throughout the world for their freshness and elegance. Produce of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier, Champagne Ayala's calling card Brut Majeur offers aromas suggesting oven-fresh buttered biscuit with a dash of the best lemon curd, crisp green apple and le miel de fleurs blanches all on a backdrop of wine-moistened chalk; ample on entry, round, tactile, with presence and power in reserve but retaining a certain lightness of being, then crisp and chalky dry with flavors a delicate reprise of its alluring aromatic sweep.

In the year 1818, Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon were married, following which they decided to found Maison Billecart-Salmon in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, the family’s home town. Subsequently, Nicolas François joined forces with Louis Salmon, his wife’s brother. He oversaw all the commercial activity whilst his brother-in-law, who was passionate about oenology, dedicated himself to the creation of the wines. In the 1970s, Jean Roland-Billecart began to pursue the production of a Brut Rosé, his objective to create a Champagne pale in colour with flavour distinguished by its freshness and subtle notes of red berries. The gamble paid off and their Brut Rosé has since become the flagship cuvée of the house. And Champagne Billecart Salmon Brut Rosé is now long a favorite of our discerning clientèle. Attractive copper pink to silver at the rim in color with cool come hither aromas suggestive of fresh berries and cream, a hint of wintergreen and toasted baguette; an immediate presence on the tongue, ample in body and nicely rounded with a generous froth engaging, almost embracing the palate; chalky dry and intensely fresh and flavorful to the finish, an absolute joy of a sparkling wine.

Cristal is the flagship cuvée of Champagne Louis Roederer, originally created by Louis Roederer, II at the urging of the Tsar Alexander, II of Russia in 1876. It is composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay fruit sourced from 45 lieux‑dits in the 7 grands crus of Verzenay, Verzy, Beaumont‑sur‑Vesle, Ay, Avize, Mesnil‑sur‑Oger and Cramant; aromas redolent of grape and chalky soils and raw breed; potent and impactful from the get‑go, tightly wound, chalky dry, spherical in shape, again, potent and impactful on the palate long on the finish.

José Dhondt is a third-generation winegrower at the helm of this small estate on the main road in Oger. Dhondt’s grandfather came to the Champagne region from Belgium in 1924; José himself has been making wine here since 1976 after returning to the family estate in 1973 following his military service. Dhondt owns 5 hectares of vines, primarily in Oger but also a little in the neighboring village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and also in Saudoy in the Sézanne, where he grows both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. His winemaking facility is located on the outskirts of the village, housing a traditional Coquard vertical press along with a full array of temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks that he uses for fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is always carried out here, to balance the naturally high acidity of the Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs. One of our first favorites in the category of 'grower' Champagne, we've been recommending the José Dhondt Brut Blanc de Blancs for years, and for good reason, this is a consistently delicious bottling and demonstrable value in Champagne from a dedicated, talented grower: shimmering yellow/gold in color with a stream of excited bubbles racing from the point mousse of our favorite Champagne glass; hyper-fresh aromas suggesting orchard fruits and brioche just in the oven, then something like a fine lemon curd on lightly toasted baguette; at once both fresh and light on its feet and sumptuous and satisfying, harmonious and poised on the palate, gently creamy in texture, filling the mouth with just a wealth of frothy, almost pithy mineral refreshingness.

Laurent-Perrier are one of only a few houses with such a high reputation for their sparkling rosé production. Tasting this for the first time in too, too long, we now understand the pourquoi of it more completely. Produce of 100% Pinot Noir fruit from 10 different crus mainly in the Montagne de Reims, the wine demonstrates a brilliant array of pinks in color like some of those available in the finest 'city of the violet crown' sunsets; alluringly fresh and decidedly red berry fruits on the nose; Henry noted crunchy red fruits on the palate, too, and a blood orange like citrus quality; Ian noted a saline and citrus quality; and there is an overarching sense of equilibrium with this wine that makes it a most affable and quaffable affair, finishing with a flourish of freshness and flavor. Strange as it may seem for us to say, pink Champagne is no sure thing. Champagne Laurent‑Perrier, on the other hand, make it look like une promenade dans le parc. Laissez couler le Champagne rosé!

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve is produce of about ⅓ each Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier from a selection of approximately 60 different crus individually vinified in stainless steel. The blend contains a high proportion of about 40% reserve wines an equal mix of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and between 5 and 15 years of age. Luminous yellow golden in color with a wealth of fine bubbles; full, toasty, doughy aromas; rich and round on the palate, sumptuous even, with a freshening zest of citrus on the finish. Brut Réserve is the splendid calling card of Champagne Charles Heidsieck.