Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc) is on the rise in the Alto Adige. And Hofstätter's 2023 vintage normale is a brilliant example. Produce of 100% Pinot Blanc from vines planted to light marl soils; straw yellow in color with alluringly fresh aromas of suggestive of apple, peach and fresh melon atop a base of crushed stone and just a hint of petrichor; tantalizingly crisp and vivid on the tongue, enticing, flavorful, causing some serious salivation and just begging for a spread of antipasti and or a nice fresh piece of pan‑seared white fish with a touch of butter and fresh green herb.

"Unquestionably the number one small estate of Orvieto" according to Stephen Tanzer, Palazzone produces delicious white wines from indigenous grape varietals of Umbria, balancing irresistible fruit aromas and flavors with an oh-so stony backdrop and nerve; produce of 50% Procanico, 30% Grechetto and 20% of Verdello, Drupeggio and Malvasia, vinified in stainless steel to keep things fresh; medium‑bodied, supremely balanced white wine with aromas that speak clearly of cool of the morning harvest fresh grapes and notions of floral honey, beeswax and something like hazelnut and elderflower and, yet again, stone; at once, just ample and round, crisp and dusty, citrusy dry and alive with fresh grapey flavor.

Produce of Grechetto, Procanico, Pinot Blanc and Viognier from the vineyards of the Marchesi Antinori estate of Castello della Sala in Orvieto, Umbria in central Italy, about an hour's drive southeast from Montalcino, Toscana. Pale straw yellow in color with glints of green in color; aromas suggesting floral, citrus and pesca della vigna, at last it is, of course, mineral and grape; spherical in shape, this is a wine that demonstrates a high pedigree what with its brilliant balance, ripe fruit and restraint, holding shape long on the tongue, this is a tactile wine, yes, both supple and persistent, poised, delicious and fresh, almost irresistible — no, it surely is irresistible. Sì, sì, sì!

The 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano is terrific. Rich and layered, with plenty of vibrancy, the 2022 has plenty to recommend it. Lemon confit, white pepper, jasmine and lime open nicely. This is a pretty rich style, but it works. Drink 2023‑2026. Rated 90. ‑ Antonio Galloni, vinous.com June, 2023

Villa Antinori Bianco is one of the historic wines of the Antinori family. It was produced for the first time by Niccolò Antinori in the 1931 vintage and since then the label has remained virtually unchanged, as has the production philosophy, oriented towards a full representation of the wine’s source, the place where its grapes are cultivated. Produce these days of an inspired mingling of Trebbiano Toscano, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and a touch Riesling Renano; impeccably fresh and clean in aroma with suggestion of pristine green grapes, orchard fruits and hints of dusty Tuscan soils; chalky dry, tantalizing, adequately complex, but wholly quaffable and delicious white wine that has this taster pouring another glass to consider, reconsider … mmmm. Delizioso.

The 2020 Tignanello is so primary, so intensely fruit-driven, that it almost tastes like a barrel sample. A burst of red Sangiovese fruit opens first, followed by hints of blood orange, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and mocha later. Time in the glass brings out striking dimension. In 2020, Tignanello is wonderfully sleek and racy, with fine tannins that lie below a core of bright, sculpted fruit. The balance here is just sublime. I can't wait to revisit the 2020 with age. "We are gradually increasing the Cabernet Franc in Tignanello to balance the greater richness that today's warmer seasons are giving to our Sangioveses," Antinori CEO Renzo Cotarella told me. Drink 2028‑2045. Rated 96. ‑ Antonio Galloni, vinous.com June, 2023

The 2021 Chianti Colli Senesi is terrific. Wild cherry, tobacco, dried herbs, menthol and licorice convey the earthy, savory intensity that is such a signature of the appellation. Sweet floral top notes and refined tannins elevate the Colli Senesi in 2021. Drink 2023‑2031. Rated 90. ‑ Antonio Galloni, vinous.com June, 2023

The 2019 Chianti Classico Riserva is a dark, brooding wine. The darker side of Sangiovese comes through in a potent, strapping Riserva. Black cherry, incense, tobacco, smoke, game and dried herbs give the Riserva its bold personality, as do the burly tannins that wrap it all together. Today, the 2019 is a bit rustic, but certainly full of character. Drink 2023‑2034. Rated 91. ‑ Antonio Galloni, vinous.com June, 2022

The 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia is fascinating to taste next to the Rancia, as the two parcels are adjacent. Rich and substantial in the glass, Colonia is textured and ample, qualities that become increasingly apparent over time. Rugged, rocky terrain seems to amplify power, explosive verticality and acidity. Drink 2026‑2043. Rated 97. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com September, 2021

The 2020 Chianti Classico offers notable tension to balance the natural richness that is such a signature here. There is plenty of Panzano intensity, but less opulence than has been the norm in the past. A shift towards larger format oak and bottling four months earlier contribute to that feel. Dark red cherry, leather, spice, rose petal, dried herbs and wild flowers all grace this nuanced Chianti Classico. It will be interesting to see the direction this bottling takes. I would not plan on opening this too young. Drink 2026‑2040. Rated 92+. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com June, 2023

Produce of a blend of certified organically farmed fruit (about 90% Sangiovese with the remainder Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera and other local grape varieties) half each from vineyards at Castellina in Chianti at 450 meters above sea level and at San Quirico, located south of Castellina at 270 meters. The soils of both vineyards are a mix of Albarello (limestone) and clay with a rich skeleton of schist which gives the wine a pleasant minerality. On the label of Belcanto, Michelangelo is portayed in a mosaic of Galestro stones, typical of the soil of this terroir. Medium-deep ruby in color fading to a more sanguine garnet at the edges with aromas that are at once a kind of vinous fusion of minerality (indeed, galestro) and dark ripe Sangiovese berries with the telltale scent of the macchia mediterranea and a hint of rose petals after some air (by all means, give this wine the benefit of a good decanting); chiseled and potent on the tongue, holding its shape impeccably well (Darcie called it seamless; Henry noted the tension, the interplay between dark ripe fruit and typical Tuscan Sangiovese astringency) and well‑demonstrating the class and power of the already highly regarded 2021 vintage in Tuscany. Undeniable value in fine Chianti Classico.

Produce of 100% Sangiovese fruit from vines planted in 1968 and 1992 to the clay and limestone soils here in the Chianti Rùfina zone northeast of Florence; certified organically‑farmed, fermented with ambient yeasts and aged in a combination of French barriques and large casks for some 32 months prior to release: medium translucent ruby to just garnet at the edges with aromas of sanguine red and blue berries, saddle leather, salumi pregiati, ginestra in flower and crushed rocks; cool on entry, then full and potent; velvet in texture on the tongue with vigorous but pliant tannins carrying taut berry and earth flavors long and deep on the finish; this one is just begging for a well‑prepared bistecca alla Fiorentina with, of course, a bit of high‑quality Tuscan olive oil slathered atop.

The dark ruby 2020 Chianti Classico is ripe with aromas of black raspberry coulis, red flowers, sweet tobacco, and pine. Elegant and medium-bodied, it fills the palate with supple texture, fine tannins, and an even, well-balanced finish. This is a highly approachable wine that I would be fighting to pour by the glass if I were still running a wine program. Pure, classic, and balanced, it’s a gulpable wine will drink great now or over the coming 6-8 years. Drink 2024‑2032. Rated 92+. ‑ Audrey Frick, jebdunnuck.com January, 2024

The 2020 Chianti Classico is super-impressive. It's the sort of wine that needs time to come together, though, so readers should be in no rush. The purity of the fruit is really quite compelling. Dark cherry, plum, cedar, incense and licorice build nicely in a mid-weight Chianti Classico that hits all the right notes. Drink 2023‑2032. Rated 91. ‑ Antonio Galloni, vinous.com June, 2022

Dievole covers an area of 600 hectares within the Chianti Classico territory in Vagliagli, about 12 km north of Siena. Beginning from 450 meters above sea level, the medieval hamlet where Villa Dievole is perched, overlooking the valley in which the estate slopes down to the southeast in gentle rolling hills ending at an altitude of around 300 meters. A long cypress-lined avenue leads to the heart of the estate; a stunning Tuscan panorama opens, and from there a dense network of strade bianche alternates with olive trees, vineyards and farmhouses. It is an unforgettable landscape in which nature, history and culture together with centuries of man’s work have created a beautiful land that enchants all who would be enchanted. Here wine and extra virgin olive oil have been produced for nearly a thousand years. Tocca Stelle was born from a desire to produce a high-quality classically Tuscan wine using a vineyard planted 40 plus years ago. Produce of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and 5% Colorino from the arguably brilliant 2016 vintage in Tuscany and in a such a good place for drinking right now as almost fully mature wine with just oodles of typicity; limpid ruby to just garnet at the edges with sanguine Sangiovese aromas suggest singed dark berries, leather and the Tuscan underbrush (Henry noted a touch spice like cardamom and nutmeg); dusty dry with a sweet inner core of fruit transformed, almost weightless on the tongue with gentle length of highly complex flavor. It has this taster craving a classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina prepared with the very highest quality salt. Regularly $40.00 the bottle, on sale now at:

Produce of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino fruit from vines planted to the stony soils at about 280 meters near Castellina in Chianti in the southern part of the Chianti Classico zone; discreet sanguine Sangiovese aromas suggestive of stony soils, sottobosco, saddle leather and a hint of wintergreen; smooth and finely polished onto the tongue, then building in volume, potency and warmth with fine pulverized stony dusty tannins carrying ever more complex flavors long on the finish and well-demonstrating the preeminence of the 2016 vintage in Toscana.

The 2019 Percarlo is a wine of reserve. There's terrific purity to the fruit and fine tannins for the year, but also a bit of firmness that needs time to resolve. Bright red-toned fruit, cedar, tobacco, licorice, blood orange and spice open nicely to play off those vibrant tannins. I imagine the 2019 will need a number of years to be at its best. The 2019 spent 22 months in a combination of 30HL casks and 500L in tonneau. Production is down about 25%. Drink 2027‑2049. Rated 97. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com June, 2022

The 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is one of the most backward editions of this wine I can remember tasting. Dark and almost somber, the Vigna del Sorbo packs a ton of intensity in its deceptively mid-weight frame. In many vintages, Vigna del Sorbo is quite showy in its youth. That is not at all the case with the 2020, a wine that will require many years to be at its best. Hints of lavender, dried herbs, plum and graphite appear over time, but the 2020 is very clearly an infant. There is a feeling of youthful austerity (in a positive sense) that I find quite alluring. The 2020 Sorbo is a wine for those who can wait. Drink 2027‑2045. Rated 95+. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com June, 2023

Produce of 100% organically farmed Sangiovese fruit from the Avignonesi estate; alluring translucent ruby in color to garnet/tawny at the edges with aromas of sweet red berries, a scent of rose petal and apsects of soil underpinning; silken onto the tongue with a wellspring of fine powdery tannins that give support and carry compelling Sangiovese flavors long and gently warming to the finish. Delicious and captivating, if somewhat gently Burgundian take on Tuscan Sangiovese.

Dusty violets, lavender and cloves accentuate dried black cherries as the dramatic 2019 Brunello di Montalcino smolders up from the glass. This is impossible to ignore, bursting with energy as depths of ripe red fruits, chalky minerals and exotic spices saturate all they touch, balanced by textures of pure silk. The 2019 finishes with fantastic length and concentration, leaving a staining of tart blackberry and hints of orange that curl the tongue as crunchy tannins tug at the palate. It's rare to see such a combination of vibrancy and power. Canalicchio di Sopra nailed it in 2019. Wow. Drink 2026‑2042. Rated 96. ‑ Eric Guido, vinous.com November, 2023

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casaccia is impossible to ignore; it is earthy and mineral, almost smoky and animal in nature. Ashen stones, violets and balsam herbs complicate depths of dried black cherries, sage and clove. This is deeply textural and seductive, balancing ripe red and black fruits with sweet spice and minty herbal tones that create a kaleidoscope of sensation on the palate. A salty flourish shines through the finale, along with a crunchy tinge of blackberry seeds to contrast, as fine-grained tannins wrap the senses with youthful poise and a bitter twang resonates. The 2019 may be immortal. La Casaccia is a showstopper. Drink 2026‑2040. Rated 100. ‑ Eric Guido, vinous.com November, 2023

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli is coy in the glass, youthfully restrained and requires coaxing to reveal its delicate bouquet. With time, a dusty display of dried roses, licorice, cherries, cloves and camphor emanates from the glass. This model of purity is polished, silky and refined with savory spice and mineral-laden red fruits that saturate, all perfectly guided by brisk acidity. It leaves the palate stained in primary concentration, turning inward upon itself. Tart currant and mentholated herb notes add freshness to a web of fine-grained tannins. The 2019 is a breathtaking interpretation of Montosoli fruit. Drink 2027‑2042. Rated 97. ‑ Eric Guido, vinous.com November, 2023

Remarkably pretty and spicy to the core, the 2022 Rosso di Montalcino blossoms in the glass with a bouquet of rose petals and wild strawberries offset by white pepper. This is lifted and graceful in style with a salty, saline core that grumbles beneath its ripe wild berry fruits. It finishes tense and structured, with a trace of sour cranberry and citrus that tugs at the cheeks. The purity of Sangiovese is on full display here. Have patience with the 2022 because the best is yet to come. Drink 2025‑2030. Rated 91+. ‑ Eric Guido, vinous.com December 2023

The 2022 Rosso Di Montalcino is ripe and inviting, with beautiful aromas of cherry liqueur, tobacco leaf, crushed flowers, and sweet herbs. Medium to full-bodied, it moves seamlessly to the palate with a velvety texture and has a sunny feel with lovely clarity. A gorgeous Rosso offering a ton of enjoyment now, with ripe tannins, delicate mineral undercurrents, and a clean finish, it’s a very appealing wine to drink over the next 10 years. Drink 2024‑2034. Rated 91+. ‑ Audrey Frick, jebdunnuck.com February, 2024

While tasting through the 2018 Brunellos, I couldn’t help but notice that quality in the southwest (in this case, Sant'Angelo in Colle) were generally higher across the board than in the north. This is not to say that every estate made a great wine, but that many more than usual made very balanced wines in the context of the growing season. However, Il Poggione made one of the top wines of 2018. What makes their Brunello so special is its balance of depth and structure that is seldom seen in this vintage, yet married to the exotic aromatics that many 2018s are noted for. So how did they succeed? Once again, this shows the importance of place in Montalcino. Alessandro Bindocci, manager and winemaker at Il Poggione, described 2018 in the southwest as having heavy precipitation throughout the spring that built up water supplies in the soils, which helped to mitigate the hot temperatures in May through July. Average August temperatures and light precipitation followed, with a cooling trend leading into September. While there was more rain in September, the strong Mistral winds maintained the health of the vines. In the end, production at Il Poggione was down due to strict selection of bunches to deal with the humid conditions. For this reason, Bindocci decided to use all of the fruit from the Paganelli vineyard in the estate Brunello, instead of producing a Riserva. The result is easily one of the top wines of the vintage and a bottle that collectors should not miss. As for looking to the future, the estate has begun organic conversion as of 2022 as well as upgraded irrigation across 100 hectares of vineyards.

Impressing from the first tilt of the glass, the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino makes itself known, with a heady burst of exotic spice and crushed ashen stone giving way to dried black cherries and grilled herbs. This combines the energy of the vintage with the dark balsamic-tinged fruits of Montalcino’s southern reaches, as zesty acidity maintains balance throughout, and flinty minerals saturate toward the close. It finishes long, savory and structured, yet its tannins are more rounded than anticipated, creating both a classic feel, but also leaving a mouthwatering sensation that tricks the taster back to the glass for more. Easily one of the top wines of the vintage, the 2018 is not to be missed. Rated 96+. - Eric Guido, vinous.comOctober, 2022

Produced entirely from hand‑harvested Sangiovese grapes, sourced from the estate's younger vineyards, this perennially excellent and emblematic Rosso di Montalcino is aged in a combination of botti grandi and tonneau of 350‑litre capacity before a period of bottle aging. Translucent ruby garnet in color with aromas suggestive of sanguine roasted red berry fruit, singed earth, saddle leather, macchea mediterranea and more; just plump on entry with shape and volume, then demonstrating a gentle structure of rounded tannins and nerve and a push of fruity intensity leaving the mouth fresh and pleasingly challenged.

Lively medium red. Pure, very refreshing aromas and flavors of raspberry, licorice and violet on the drop-dead gorgeous nose. Then sweet and pliant, boasting delightful energy and balance, with the red fruits and subtle herbal notes conveying a distinct coolness on the mineral, vibrant and very long finish. A real essence of Sangiovese, this is an absolutely splendid Rosso di Montalcino. Well done. Drink 2020‑2025. Rated 93. - Ian D'Agata, vinous.com March, 2020

The Chiacchiera winery founded in 2010 by the family of Emanuela Mancianti and is located in the hills of Montepulciano in the locality of Cervognano just southeast of the town of Montepulciano itself. This is an area most suitable for the production of both wine and olive oil. The name "Chiacchiera" was chosen by Emanuela’s father Mario to highlight the fact that it’s a family business. Mario was given this nickname (chiacchierone means chatterbox in Italian) because his guests would be enchanted by his conversation, just as a good wine should enchant those who drink it. Emanuela, on the other hand, personally and meticulously follows every phase of the farming and the vineyards, leaving nothing to chance. Produce of 90% Sangiovese and the remaining 10% Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo and Mammolo fruit, the wine is a translucent medium ruby fading just at the edges in color; a touch shy on the nose at first then coming to reveal aromas of crisp red cherry, dried wild herbs, dusty earth and eventually a kind of sangue d'uva quality; vibrant on the tongue, announcing itself clearly with lots of building energy and expression, then eventually mouthfilling with gentle fresh tannins carrying a burst of fresh flavor toward the finish. Questo vino è semplicemente delizioso!

The Salustri Leonardo estate is located less than 10 miles from the borders of Montalcino on the slopes of Monte Amiata. It’s the combination of elevations, up to 380 meters, and the moderating air currents that blow in from the Tyrrhenian Sea that allow them to produce Sangiovese with such character in this warm location. The soils mix sandstone and limestone in varying proportions throughout their vineyards, most of which were planted in the 1950s and 1960s (old by Sangiovese standards) and have all been farmed organically since 1990. In fact, Leonardo Salustri has been one of the leaders of natural and sustainable practices in Montecucco, a region that can now boast as many as 85% of its producers being fully certified organic. The winemaking here is pretty straightforward in an attempt to communicate the inherent qualities of Sangiovese through the finished wines. Spontaneous fermentations and refinement of the juice are completed all in large-capacity oak casks, with the exception of the freshly-styled Marleo, which is finished all in stainless steel and is a serious bargain …

90% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo. The 2019 Rosso Marleo Montecucco opens with a display of cedar spice box and roses giving way to black cherries and hints of leather. It’s silky in texture, with polished, ripe red fruits that flow effortlessly across the palate. This leaves sweet tannins to linger, as residual acids keep the mouth watering, and hints of blueberry and licorice slowly fade. Such balance and so complete, the 2019 Marleo is a beauty and a remarkable value. Drink 2022‑2025. Rated 91. ‑ Eric Guido, vinous.com October, 2021. Regularly $17.50 the bottle, on sale now at:

The 2020 Ornellaia is a gorgeous, elegant wine. Seamless and wonderfully deep on the palate, the 2020 is super-refined from the outset. Even with all of its depth, the 2020 retains terrific freshness and cut to play off its soft, succulent fruit. Overall, the 2020 looks to be a relatively accessible Ornellaia that will drink well with minimal cellaring. I especially admire the precision and understated finesse here. August, 2023 Drink 2027‑2045. Rated 96. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com August, 2023

The 2019 Ornellaia is one of the most elegant wines I have ever tasted here. All the elements are so well-balanced. Dark and racy, with fabulous class and pedigree to burn, the 2019 is superb from the very first taste. Dark plum, mocha, new leather, licorice and spice build over time, but it is the wine’s stunning finesse that impresses most. The 2019 has the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon since the 2002. That very much comes through in the wine’s vibrancy and aromatic presence. Drink 2027‑2049. Rated 97+. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com February, 2022

The 2018 Ornellaia is an introvert at this stage. Medium in body, with terrific persistence and impeccable balance, the 2018 is not in any mood to show all its cards today. Hints of red berry fruit, mocha, spice, licorice and dried flowers emerge with a bit of coaxing. I won’t be surprised to see it put on weight with more time in bottle. There is certainly plenty to look forward to. Readers should expect a silky, aromatic Ornellaia in line with vintages such as 2004 that are more about finesse than raw power. This is the first time in which Merlot drives the blend in Ornellaia. Drink 2025‑2040. Rated 97. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com January, 2021

Produce of fruit of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 15% Sagrantino vines planted to clay/limestone/sandy soils at 250 meters of elevation in Umbria in central Italia; ruby red to just garnet at the edges in color with typical Sangiovese aromas suggestive of sweet cured meats, cherries, macchea mediterranea and the dusty summertime vineyard floor (eventually, with air, there was the scent of rose petals and a hint of liquirizia); slips smoothly onto the tongue with gentle Sangiovese astringency (the more fierce tannins of the Sangiovese and Sagrantino are ameliorated here by the softer Merlot); simply lovely Italian picnic red, perfect to cut against the oil of a good salami or to foil hard cheeses, and perfect for mid-week pasta and pizza, too.

The 2016 Barolo La Villa is a beguiling wine that needs a bit of time in bottle to fully open up. Then again, it is a young Barolo, so that is very much to be expected. Dried herbs, mint, licorice, dark cherry, underbrush and a whole range of spiced/balsamic notes fill out the layers. Next to the straight Barolo, La Villa has more body, depth and texture. It is another fine effort from Seghesio. Drink 2024‑2036. Rated 94. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com October, 2020

Marcarini's 2016 Barolo Brunate captures much of the mystique of this La Morra site in its beguiling aromatics. Deep, layered and so expressive, the 2016 has a lot to offer. Time in the glass brings out an exotic quality to the red toned fruit, with spice, menthol and floral overtones that linger. I would not be in a rush to open bottles. Drink 2026‑2036. Rated 92. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com February, 2021

Perbacco is the Italian word for 'golly' (or thereabouts), which we are told was the word that came from the mouth of his mother when Luca Currado Vietti told her that he would declassify what could be Barolo into a less expensive Langhe Nebbiolo … But, to be sure, this is not Barolo light, this is a formidable Langhe Nebbiolo in its own right: medium ruby in color fading to a just slightly tawnier shade at the edges with aromas suggestive of dried cherries (Vietti themselves also note spice and a hint of menthol) and that telltale 'tar and roses' typical of Langhe Nebbiolo (it's all in the soil); full and potent, building in presence and structure on the tongue, with dusty tannins framing rich fruit and a genuine warmth, intensity and length of flavor on the finish. Brilliant choice along with cold nights (or air-conditioning), slow-cooked meats, dishes with mushrooms (or truffles if you've got 'em), aged cheeses and more.

Dogliani is a relatively new DOCG which denotes high quality wines produced from Dolcetto grapes in this cooler, higher elevation growing area in this southern part of Piemonte. Dolcetto translates from Italian as 'little sweet one' — fitting, in this case, as Dogliani is not only quite possibly the origin of the grape, but is certainly also the sweet spot on the planet for its cultivation and transformation into wine. And the Luigi Einaudi bottling of (Vigna) Tecc «pronounced tĕtch» is longtime a favorite of our own and that of our most discerning clientèle: lovely just translucent deep ruby in color with aromas that initially suggest a favorite hard cherry candy from this taster's youth, then graphite (old fashioned grade school‑grade pencil shavings), bitter almond, a waft of liquirizia and eventually just bunches and bunches of plump ripe dark grapes; exceptional equilibrium, at once, ample grapey and firm on the palate (Ian noted 'both fruity and savory'; Andrea noted 'a finesse and elegance uncommon in Dolcetto'), and there's something more still, this wine seems to have a certain personality, a kind of nerve, lifeblood, urgency and, at the same time, a sense of comfort in one's own shoes (the views of the Alps from Dogliani would have this taster just giddily comfortable in those Italian shoes); finishing crisp and fresh and vibrant as a brisk sub‑Alpine morning. Superbo vino Dolcetto!

The Tascante Ghiaia Nera is a cuvee of Nerello Mascalese from three incredibly biodiverse Etna contrade vineyards on the north side of Mount Etna – Piano Dario, Rampante and Sciaranuova. Surrounded by chestnut trees and downy oak, these terraced volcanic vineyard sites produce supremely balanced wines that embody the freshness and restrained power for which Etna is known. Translucent ruby to tawny at the edges in color; smoky berry upfront (ghiai nera translates to black gravel), then red berry and earth (Nick noted black cherry and red floral tones); opens and freshens with aeration of a quick double decanting; silken on entry then building in ashen stone tannins that carry bursting berry flavors deliciously long on the finish.

Etna Rosso is, for us, a most wonderful if somewhat recent discovery of some, um, magmatude. And Tenuta delle Terre Nere have emerged a favorite producer of the wine among our discerning clientèle. This Etna Rosso, their opening salvo among a number of delicious bottlings, is produced from a preponderance of Nerello Mascalese along with a dash of Nerello Cappuccio fruit from the young vines of the estate cropped at low yields of around 35 hectolitres per hectare and growing on the hillsides of the famous volcano on the eastern edge of the island of Sicily. Absolutely gorgeous translucent deep ruby in color with a certain vinosità what with almost almost fermentive aromas of crushed ripe berries, grape pomace, rose petals and stone; deceptively supple on entry, then building in body with a steady crescendo of substantial ripe tannins, power and volcanic warmth on the tongue. While there has been a good deal of comparison of Etna Rosso to Burgundian Pinot Noir, the aromatic profile is really quite different and the silken-textured opening quickly gives way, builds into somewhat more of a southern powerhouse on the tongue, with fine‑grained tannins seemingly carrying bursting flavors right on up that hill, potent and long to the finish. Maybe a comparison to a mythical marriage of Chambolle‑Musigny and Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape would be more apt but, then again, no. Etna Rosso is sui generis. One might say it enters on silken slippers, all carefree, island-hopping light on its feet, but goes out with a firm and forceful resolve, as one might reasonably expect of a wine whose vines' dance partner is the stuff of an active volcano.

The 2022 Etna Rosso lifts from the glass with a bouquet that mixes savory and sweet: woodland berries, cloves, grilled herbs and wet concrete. This is fruitfocused, with masses of ripe black cherries accentuated by hints of sweet spice as a gentle staining of tannins forms toward the close. The 2022 finishes remarkably fresh, enlivened by a bump of juicy acidity as rosy inner florals gradually taper off. This makes for an excellent introduction to the Pietradolce style. Drink 2024‑2028. Rated 92. Eric Guido, vinous.com March, 2024

The Contrado Santo Spirito di Passopisciari is located at about 700 metres of elevation on the slopes of Mount Etna and has comparatively deep, rich soils of pebbles, gravel and volcanic ash. The elevation allows for the diurnal cycle swing of warm days and cooler nights enabling the vines' respiration that makes fine winegrowing a possibility and even a thing of beauty indeed. Alluring translucent ruby to just tawnier at the edges in color with floral scents suggestive of roses and violets, then fermenting berries and notions of a calmer version of the once violent volcanic earth, albeit with the lurking hint of smoldering rock (Darcie also detected the scent of mountain laurel); almost Burgundian silken on entry then demonstrating a firmer more vigorous and broadly stone-like tannic underpinning rising up on the tongue; eventually, this is a quite powerful rendition of one of our favorite of the Etna contradas, not your cocktail variety Etna Rosso, give this one a good decanting and serve it up with more substantial winter fare.

Vermentino is the workhorse white wine grape variety grown around the span of southeastern France and the northwestern and western coasts of Italy down to Tuscany and to the islands of Corsica and Sardegna. It seems especially well adapted to the coastal vineyards of the Ligurian and Tyrrhenian seas (this wine is more clear evidence). Produce of 100% Vermentino hand harvested from vines planted in 2008 to the primarily crushed granite soils of microclimate of Vena di San Leonardo in the Alta-Gallura; vivid yellow/platinum in color with glints of green and ultra fresh aromas that make this taster want to travel again with reminiscence of sweet ripe green/gold berries kissed with the fresh salt sea air and a hint of ginestra and the vine leaf itself lending pith (Jankara themselves suggest aromas of Sardinian mandarin and white almond flowers); just ample on entry, then fresh and vibrant on the tongue, almost as though the wine inherently wants to bubble, with an intensity of flavor and saline minerality that stir the salivary glands long and fresh on the finish.

Produce of about 85% Cannonau, 10% Carignano and 5% Bovale Sardo planted to pebbly, calcareous clay-loam soils with southeastern exposures on the island of Sardegna. Cannonau is also known as Garnacha in Spain, as Grenache in France and elsewhere. It is unclear from where it originated but, suffice to say, it is very much at home in Sardegna. Pale translucent ruby to just tawnier at the edges with alluring aromas of red berries and spice, a gentle scent of macchia mediterranea and a certain overarching vinosità; supple on entry, almost silky in texture, medium-full in body with a warming grip of jittery fine granular tannins carrying a gentle intensity of spicy berryish flavors long on the finish.

La Valentina is a leading example of the modern renaissance of winemaking in Abruzzo. The region has a history as a source of inexpensive bulk wine production, but a new generation of winemakers have dedicated themselves to harnessing the excellent terroir to produce high quality rather than high quantity — and La Valentina is at the forefront of this movement. The di Properzio brothers, proprietors of La Valentina, remain true to the traditional varieties associated with Abruzzo: Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, along with a time‑honored but almost forgotten variety, Pecorino. The shift in focus is not in the grapes but in the way they are grown and vinified. La Valentina has acquired several vineyard sites that are located at higher elevations in the foothills of the Apennines, near a national park in pristine condition. In all of their vineyards, La Valentina have made a strong commitment to sustainability, avoiding the use of artificial or chemical products, ensuring maximum biodiversity and relying on minimal intervention in the land’s natural processes. To this end, all the estate vineyards have been certified organic since 2016. The name of the Pecorino grape is derived from Uve delle Pecora, a reference to the sheepherders who ate the grapes while accompanying their flocks across the hills and valleys of Abruzzo and the Marche. The wine is produced from 100% Pecorino fruit from vines planted to the clay soils of the communes of San Valentino, Scafa, and Spoltore in the province of Pescara, some 150 to 350 meters in elevation. Pale yellow/gold in color with initially reticent, eventually enticing aromas suggestive of stone fruits and salt sea air; silken smooth, tactile and viscous onto the tongue with a wellspring of energy, engaging the palate with a fresh saline minerality and hyper-refreshingness.

Shimmering, pristine yellow/gold in color with immediate and alluring aromas of yellow fruits like prugna mirabella (both Chris and Henry both sensed tropical fruit like guava; Venica themselves note apricot and aromatic herbs such as sage and thyme) and, for us, an almost palpable minerality; fully engaging on the palate, at once both tender, firmly mineral and gently saline, stirring the salivary glands and staying fresh with remarkable intensity of flavor long on the finish.

Produce of 100% organically-farmed Verdicchio grapes from vines on average 35-plus years in age and planted to the clay/limestone soils in this golden zone of the Marche in northeastern Italia; shimmering yellow/gold in color with aromas immediately suggestive of lemon or bergamot-like citrus flower, orchard fruits and the flesh of yellow/golden apple (a number of experts have historically noted bitter almond as well; Carol noted its Adriatic salinity); ample, full, rounded and satisfying on the tongue yet with vibrant citrusy acidity and pithiness that serve to amplify the wine's considerable volume and intensity of flavor on the finish.

We've recommended Brigaldara for years for the quality and value of various of their red wines from Valpolicella. Their splendid white wine from Soave is a more recent discovery. Produce of 100% Garganega fruit hand‑harvested from vines in Marcellise east of Verona and trained in the Pergola veronese fashion, the fruit undergoes temperature‑controlled fermentation including selective cryoextraction (a partial freezing of the grapes) that protects from oxidation and furthers the eventual wine's aromatic potential; brilliant light yellow/platinum in color with hyper‑fresh aromas that conjure a cool morning harvest of just ripened green grapes with further suggestion of straw, chamomile, peach and citrus; supple and just rounded in texture with all the nerve of fresh acidity keeping everything lively and tantalizing on the tongue. Remarkable value, too!

Produce of 55% Corvina, 25% Corvinone and 20% Rondinella fruit hand‑harvested from 45 hectares of vines planted from 1970 to 1980 at 150 to 200 mètres in elevation at Marcellise near Verona. The vines are trained in both the Guyot and the Pergola Veronese methods. Limpid ruby red in color with subtle yet alluringly complex aromas suggesting rose petals, black and red berries, dried cherries and an inkling of orange peel, spice and earth; supple on entry, then expanding to almost velvety in texture, demonstrating a certain spine and presence without weight and the gentlest tannins carrying delicate but persistent flavors long on the finish. In a word, vinosità.

Spicy, floral and citrus-tinged, the 2020 Valpolicella Superiore Case Vecie is impossible to ignore. Soft-textured and open-knit, this impresses with a core of mineral-tinged red fruits under an air of violets and lavender. This finishes remarkably fresh and with a salty flourish as residual acids maintain a lovely freshness. Drink 2023‑2026. Rated 92. - Eric Guido, vinous.com December, 2022

Produce of 65% Corvina, 5% Corvinone, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara fruit harvested late in the season (mid‑November) from 2½ hectares of vines in the Poiega vineyard near Negrar. Alluring medium translucent ruby in color to just lighter tawnier at the edges with rich blue‑fruited berry and rose petal aromas; ample and, if the Sanperetto is silken in texture, the Poiega goes somewhere between silk and satin and velvet, ultra tactile wine, this, with gentle but palpable intensity and persistence of flavor carried long on the finish by jittery fine‑grained tannins.

Produce of 100% Pinot Grigio fruit from vineyards planted to mostly Dolomitic limestone together with volcanic soils from selected vineyard sites of in Trentino and the Alto Adige, where cool Alpine and warm Mediterranean influences meet; pristine vivid platinum/yellow in color with aromas redolent of the fresh mountain air, cool green/gris-skinned berries, along with suggestion of spiced apple, apricot and something like honey in the comb; ample on the palate with a gentle viscosity and the push/pull of citrus peel and pith and grape and an overarching Alpine refreshingness.

Produce of 100% Chardonnay from deep sandy soils on gravelly deposits in the otherworldly gorgeous Südtirol‑Alto Adige of northeastern Italia. Temperature‑controlled (read cool) fermentation in stainless‑steel tanks (read unoaked), the new wine subsequently matures for several months on the fine lees. The result is a brilliant, shimmering lemon yellow/gold with glints of green in color and ultra‑fresh aromas suggestive of vines in flower, flesh and skin of fresh green apple, melon and mango; supple and nicely rounded on the tongue with just a hint of citrus and saline mineral tang; both satisfying and refreshing, and all for a price so gulpably easy on the pocketbook.

Multi-awarded in major Italian and international oil competitions, this bottling represents the flagship of the Frantoio Bonamini. Produced occurs in limited quantities at the end of October with Grignano and Favarol varieties. The taste has a wide vegetable and aromatic charge of lettuce and celery, basil and mint — a fine companion to carpaccio, shellfish and fresh soft cheeses.

The Südtirol Alto Adige enjoys a continental climate protected from the Atlantic and cold northern frontal weather by the Alps and benefits from access to the Mediterranean climate to the south via the Adriatic Sea. Add lots and lots of sunlight and brilliant winegrowing soils ed ecco qua. Brilliant bright yellow/gold in color with ripe, perfumed aromas suggestive of fresh cool orchard fruits like crisp apple, peach, mirabelle plum, then citrus and stone (of course, it's really just the aroma of giddily happy grapes from a wonderful grapegrowing climate and a nice scenery, too); at once caressing and refreshing on the tongue, ample in weight and yet, somehow, still light on its feet; then, mineral, fresh and mouthwatering on the finish.

From 100% Pinot Grigio fruit grown in the Bressanone valley basin at elevations of 600 meters to 900 meyers, well on your way into the Alps from Bolzano and what is one of the loveliest vineyard situations one might imagine (there is even a ski area above the town of Bressanone); pale yellow/gold with glints of green in color; brisk, mountain fresh aromatics suggest taut cool of the morning grapes, pine, mint, cool melon, orchard fruits, hazelnut (knowing where this wine is grown really just stirs the imagination); crisp, vibrant and fresh on the tongue yet ample in body, supple and satisfying with a lovely, nervy Alpine intensity of flavor that lasts.