Tony Soter was for the longest time a most sought-after consulting winemaker in Napa Valley and owner/winemaker at Etude Vineyards. His consulting work included the likes of Araujo, Dalla Valle, Niebaum-Coppola, Spottswoode and Viader, among others. We, here, followed his work enthusiastically, as the high quality was always apparent. Tony Soter well earned the reputation of «winemakers' winemaker». He eventually moved north from California to his native Oregon to pursue production of the finest Pinot Noir, establishing Soter Vineyards in the northern Willamette Valley.

Our former co-worker and friend James Cahill moved northwest to Oregon back in the mid to late 1990s, following his dream to produce fine Pinot Noir. He worked for a good while with Mike Etzel at Beaux Frères, then briefly with his friend Adam Campbell at Elk Cove Vineyards before finally landing the work that has come to define his career there alongside Tony Soter at Soter Vineyards. So, now, James has become the winemakers' winemaker's winemaker, or just winemaker³ should you wish to conserve letters.

Their Soter Vineyards North Valley Pinot Noir has been go-to Willamette Valley stuff for us for some time now. The 2018 vintage is just on the scene and is just splendid: alluring dark ruby red in color, fully ripe Pinot Noir aromas suggestive of Oregon blackberries, bramble, bing cherry and a few little somethings left to the imagination (after decanting, Henry noted more prominent red fruits; our winebuyer reminisced over Chambolle, er, and, of course, Carlton); smooth as silk on entry, then ample, impressive in scale even and intensely flavorful but without any excess of weight on the palate with fine jittery tannins present, amplifying tensile flavors that continue to echo the original tantalizing slate of aromatics long on the finish — ah, at last, truth in advertising … That (vigorous) decanting, by the way, is every bit worthwhile with this one. Makes this $30.00 (ish) bottle taste a good deal more expensive. Regularly $32.50 the bottle, on sale now at:

Produce of 100% estate grown Pinot Noir from all 6 of the Elk Cove vineyard sites: The Winery Estate, Mount Richmond, Five Mountain, Clay Court, Goodrich and Windhill. These sites are comprised of both Pommard and Dijon clone plant material and all three of the major Willamette Valley soil types, which is to say that one is getting a pretty good look here at what the Willamette Valley might offer in terms of (oh, let's use the French word) typicité. Alluring translucent ruby in color to just fuchsia at the edges with fresh fermentive Pinot Noir aromas suggesting cherry, blackberry bramble and spice (Henry noted a floral rose hip-like quality along with bright strawberry); at once both supple and crisp on the palate with vivifying acidity and crunchy taut berry fruit, fine grained tannins and a freshness and energy on the finish that gives lift and appeal and surely beckons another pull. This is a quite simply gorgeous example of Oregon Pinot Noir, and at so very reasonable a price.

Deep ruby in color with an almost aristocratic aromatic profile that represents a splendid melding of berry and soil, a sense of fine herbs and baking spices; eventually the Oregonian blackberry/cherry fruit-like qualities of Pinot Noir become apparent along with suggestion of dried roses and what the French call reglisse; quite fine on the tongue as well, engaging in that face to face kind of way with warmth and presence and a fine-grained and elegant quality leaving this taster just salivating for more … To be sure, this is a very fine wine deserving of a nice decanting — it will reward you for same. And, given our experience with such bottles from Elk Cove Vineyards, it is likely also a fine candidate for cellaring.

Medium translucent ruby in color with deep, almost taciturn aromas of dark cherry fruit, earth and toast from barrel aging (Andrea noted sassafras); medium-full in body with rich, enveloping shaved dark chocolate and cherry flavors on the tongue along with good intensity and warmth; and while noted wine critic, Robert Parker, frequently quipped about how this reminded him of a certain highly-regarded Beaune 1er Cru (and we would quite normally concur), we think this 2018 vintage a bit more deep, earthy and less compromising, holding fort just a bit further south for now, almost more Pommard-like in its way. The wine remains formidable in its category and, as always, delicious.