The Ardèche River carves a narrow gorge through the limestone foothills of the Massif Central in south‑central France on its way east where it joins the Rhône river northwest of Orange. This is a barren, rugged region appreciated for its dramatic beauty, its warm climate and long growing season which, together with its elevation of c. 270 mètres and clay/limestone soils, make it ideal for the production of high quality white wine. Maison Louis Latour have brought their Burgundian savoir‑faire with Chardonnay some 300+ kilomètres south with brilliant result: bright green/gold in color; inviting aromas suggestive of fine wildflower honey in the comb, fresh melon and Asian pear on a backdrop of cool of the morning rain‑moistened limestone; at once vibrant with crisp acidity and satisfyingly smooth with broad and compelling Chardonnay flavors that last long.

The name of the wine « Les Bergeronettes » is a nod to the wagtails (the small birds) that follow the tractor as the vigneron works the vines; lovely translucent ruby/purple in color; silky smooth on entry, then demonstrating that crushed stony underpinning providing structure; mouthwatering flavor to its core, an absolute delight on the tongue; our salesperson, John Duncan, was musing wistfully of roasted chicken with garlic and and roast potatoes with rosemary.

Another highlight this year, Charvin's 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape exhales a complex, floral bouquet of violet, rose petals, dark cherries, spices and menthol intertwined with delicate garrigue notes. Medium to full-bodied and fine-boned with a layered core of fruit, bright acids and velvety tannins, it finishes long and ethereal with a delicate tannic frame thanks to whole bunches. This blend of 80% Grenache, 7% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and the rest of Vaccarèse and Counoise is one of my favorites this year. Drink 2026‑2046. Rated (94-96). ‑ Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate September, 2024

The ultra‑traditional wines that the Faraud sisters, Delphine, Roseline and Cendrine, produce at their family’s domaine are among the most classically proportioned, elegant and complex of the appellation. They also age effortlessly, as extensive research has proven to me. A single, unadorned wine is made here, and it is raised exclusively in large concrete vats and old oak foudres. The value that it delivers is truly amazing given its consistently high quality, which places it among the finest wines not just of Gigondas but of France. ‑ Josh Raynolds, vinous.com

Produce of about 3⁄4 Grenache, and the remainder Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre hand‑harvested from 45+ year old sustainably‑farmed vines planted to clay/limestone soils with southeastern exposures in the shadow of the Dentelles de Montmirail at elevations of 300 to 400 mètres. No herbicides or pesticides are used here; 100% grappe entière fermentation in cement with indigenous yeasts, then aged in very old large oak foudre, unfined and unfiltered. Just translucent dark ruby in color with fleshy berry aromas almost completely subsuming subtle notions of garrigue, rain‑moistened limestone and hints of reglisse; ample and plush onto the palate, full in body, fully dry with stony underpinning and flavors a sublime reminiscence of the aromatic slate. Gigondas can be such a magnificent vehicle for demonstrating the nature of southern Rhône Valley wines. This one absolutely hits the mark.

Founded by Roger Marès in the 1960s, the Mas des Bressades is located in the Costières de Nîmes, in the southern Rhône Valley of France. It extends across 45 hectares to the north of the Camargue, where the vines are planted at an elevation of 70 meters on what the French call galets roulés or rolled pebbles (medium sized stones, really) rolled and rounded by glacial action and the great Rhône River. The name «Bressades» comes from the Provençal patois and, fittingly, means to rock. While the estate has long been cultivated with respect for nature and the soil, in 2017 Cyril Marès requested certification in organic farming. After three years of conversion, it is now official. Produce of an inspired south of France mingling of 50% Roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc, 10% Marsanne and 10% Viognier, their Costières de Nîmes Blanc is a vivid pale platinum/yellow in color with aromas suggestive of white pepper, fresh salt sea breezes, cool green/gold berries and crisp cool melon blanc d'Antibe; both ample and bright with its mineral edge on keen display, mouthwateringly fresh and vibrant on the tongue and just oh so deliciously refreshing and quaffable.

Produce of 90% Vermentino (known in the south of France as the tongue-trilling Rolle) and 10% Ugni Blanc planted to north‑facing plots on Quaternary limestone scree and Oligocene lacustrine limestone at approximately 300 mètres in elevation. And while we would love to describe this more typically in terms of flowers or other fruits, the wine really does speak more explicitly in terms of cool of the morning green/gold grapes lovingly grown in a very happy and beautiful place, harvested carefully, then tended with care and attention in the cellar prior to bottling and being sent expeditiously here to beautiful downtown Austin, Texas from there just near the commune of Apt in the département de Vaucluse in the Provence‑Alpes‑Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. The move to biodynamic viticulture at Château de Mille is clearly yielding a positive result (we've seen this before) giving the wines a heightened sense of place and personality, vivacity and push. This ultra‑fresh 2024 vintage Luberon Blanc is just bursting with life and enthusiasm and refreshingness, fully dry, of course, but also so deliciously wet and thirst‑quenching in nature.

Produce of a blend of about half each Syrah and Carignan fruit, certified organically‑farmed and transitioning now biodynamie; ruby/purple in color with fermentive aromas a mélange of berries red and blue along with (with some air) subtle suggestion of baking spices and candied orange peel; quite engaging and with excellent equilibrium on the tongue what with a nice sense of push/pull of nervy acidity and stony/earthy/berryish fruit; leaves the palate both satisfied and refreshed, refreshed and satisfied; just as any good and wholly over‑achieving everyday red wine should.

Produce of a preponderance of Grenache, along with Cinsault and Syrah, mainly from the right bank of the Rhône river, from vines planted in loess and sandy soils; harvest is carried out by machine in the cool of night to preserve the fresh aromatic qualities; light copper/pink in color with ultra‑fresh aromas suggestive of crisp cool melon and fraises des bois; crisp and fresh on the tongue with a touch of melon pith and a kiss of taut red berry lending a most welcome wisp of freshening acidity.

They say that 'the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain'. Well, we would note that 'grapes grown near the Rhône taste mainly of the stone' (the southern Rhône and limestone, that is); produce of a typical southern Rhône Valley blend of predominantly Grenache and Syrah from a variety of soils including pebble/clay, soils with layers of stone, stony clay terraces, stony silty‑sand; the fruit is vinified in concrete and stainless steel, following which the wine is then aged for 6 months also in concrete and stainless steel (read, no oak); dense, dark ruby fading gently at the very edges in color with aromas that are at once recognizable as southern Rhône Valley red (Grenache is such a great communicator of this terroir) what with the rather clear suggestion of earth and crushed limestone and just a whole panoply of dark ripe berry fruits; this follows onto the palate with a stony underpinning and gently crispy Grenache tannins that freshen everything onto the finish. Makes this taster wish it were winter … Oh well, we do have the air‑conditioning.

Domaine de la Becassonne is a small estate located near the village of Sorgue near Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape in the southern Rhône Valley. Planted in 1978, the property is solely dedicated to the production of white wine, a rarity in these parts. But with its cool micro‑climate and sandy, limestone soils the tiny property is ideal for the production of this fresh, expressive white wine, an inspired mingling of about 40% Roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc and 30% Clairette. The vines are pruned for low yields of around 40 hectolitres per hectare. Each varietal is harvested separately as it reaches optimal ripeness, then fermented in temperature‑controlled stainless steel. The wine is bottled in late winter to early Spring following the vintage. Pristine platinum/yellow in color with ultra‑fresh if gently discreet pre‑Alpine aromas suggestive of orange blossom, apricot and cool ripe melon (Brunel themselves note tropical fruits); at once vibrant and delicately mineral, round, supple and caressing (tactile, to be sure) on the tongue; simply superb southern Rhône Valley white wine and splendid value at its price.

The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Le Vieux Donjon is a beautifully balanced, classic expression of the appellation, as well as this estate. It has a vivid purple hue, with ripe berry fruits, peppery herbs, floral, and sandalwood-like aromatics. Medium to full-bodied, it’s seamless and elegant on the palate, with ultra-fine tannins and a great finish. This is a brilliant wine that’s already drinking well but will evolve gracefully over the next 15-20 years. Drink 2025‑2040. Rated 95. - Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com February, 2025

The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Clos de Belvédère reveals enticing aromatics of honeysuckle, jasmine, pear, grapefruit, white peach, pineapple, pastry, ginger and a pinch of honey. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, oily-textured and showing good energy, the nish is long-lasting. Drink 2022‑2029. Rated 94. ‑ Nicolas Greinacher, vinous.com April, 2023

Medium gold‑hued and remarkably pure, the 2024 Côtes Du Rhône Clavin Blanc offers clean aromatics of mulled pears, bitter almond, and white flowers. It's medium‑bodied on the palate, has a nicely balanced, elegant mouthfeel, and a salty, mineral‑laced finish. This savory, classic, complex white will shine for a solid decade if you're so inclined. Drink 2025‑2035. Rated 91. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com November, 2025

Produce of an exotic (if typical) southern Rhône Valley blend of white wine grapes: Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, all, from 1½ hectares (about 3¾ acres) of vines an average age of 65 years and located on the northern, steeper and cooler part of the « Clavin ». The folks at la Vieille Julienne themselves note that 'the white grapes are very comfortable' in these marlstone and limestone soils. Deep yellow/gold in color with otherwise discreet aromas that conjure crushed limestone and a welcome hint of toastiness, like a lovingly bruised green apple baked in a pie; exotic, indeed, tactile, warming and rounded on the tongue, but then demonstrating a remarkable intensity of flavor, nerve and tension of old vines fruit impeccably farmed and then, from a winemaking standpoint, allowed to express its simply glorious environs.

Another beautifully pure, juicy wine from this team, the 2023 Côtes Du Rhône Clavin comes from vines around the estate, just across the border of Châteauneuf du Pape in the northern part of the appellation. It offers blackberries, red cherries, violet, peppery herbs, and leather on the nose. Medium‑bodied and beautifully balanced, it has ripe, polished tannins and outstanding length. It's better than many a Châteauneuf du Pape and will keep for 10‑12 years if you're so inclined. Drink 2025‑2037. Rated 91. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com November, 2025

Good sense of vibrancy, very much on the red fruit. Full but not massive, good acidity and sense of freshness. The tannins are quite chewy and fairly robust, so give this time. Lots of energy on the long finish, it’s well balanced and not overly full. Slightly leathery touch to the tannins. Three terraces on sandy soils. Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Muscardin, Terret Noir, Vaccarèse, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Picardan, with an average age of 75 years, all coplanted and cofermented. Drink 2030‑2040. Rated 94. ‑ Matt Walls, decanter.com September, 2023

The 2020 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Hauts‑Lieux comes from a cooler, higher elevation parcel and also includes slightly more Mourvedre, both of which give this cuvée a more firm, structured profile, especially in its youth. Awesome red, blue, and black fruits as well as black licorice, liquid violet, and peppery garrigue define the bouquet, and it's full‑bodied, with a great mid‑palate, ripe tannins, and a salty, almost bloody character on the finish. It shows the more charming nature of the 2020 vintage yet still deserves 4‑5 years of bottle age and will have over two decades of longevity. Drink 2026‑2048. Rated 97. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com November, 2022

Lastly, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Reserve is another magical wine, and I might have rated this cuvée a perfect score more than any other Southern Rhône. Unquestionably in the same realm as the 2017, 2016, 2010, 2005, 2003, and 2001, it has an incredible, full‑bodied, massive style that somehow stays perfectly balanced, with flawless integration of its fruit, tannins, acidity, and alcohol. Lots of red, blue, and black fruits, loamy earth, Asian spice, licorice, and violet nuances emerge from the glass, and it hits the palate with full‑bodied richness, building yet polished tannins, and a great, great finish. It’s a sexier, more opulent wine than the Les Hauts‑Lieux release yet has the same perfect tannins that are so rare to find in the vintage. This required at least 4‑5 years of bottle age and will drink brilliantly for 20‑25+ years. Drink 2025‑2052. Rated 100. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com November, 2021

The 2023 Côtes Du Rhône Coudoulet De Beaucastel Blanc is terrific, with a soft, supple, forward style in its pure white peach, quince, and honeyed flower aromas and flavors. It's medium‑bodied and has the vintage's purity as well as outstanding length. Rated 91. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com October, 2024

A blend of 30% Mourvèdre, 30% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 10% Cinsault, the 2022 Cotes du Rhone Coudoulet de Beaucastel exhales a delicate, perfumed bouquet of black cherries, spices, violets and spring flowers. It’s medium to full‑bodied, enveloping and layered with a juicy core of fruit, a tense mid‑palate and a fresh, ethereal finish. This is a consistent wine and a solid value. Drink 2024‑2034. Rated 91+. ‑ Yohan Castaing, robertparker.com September, 2024

The 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape is showing beautifully, with the sun‑kissed style of the vintage yet more depth and density than most in the vintage. Blackberries, Provençal garrigue, spice, and saddle leather all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with the classic elegance of the estate in its medium to full-bodied, layered, multi‑dimensional style. It's one of the wines of the vintage and will have two decades of longevity. Drink 2024‑2044. Rated 98. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com October, 2024

The flagship 2020 Hermitage La Chapelle was bottled in June and, as usual, comes mostly from the Le Méal lieu-dit but also includes portions from Bessards as well. Deep purple-hued, with wonderful notes of crème de cassis, graphite, incense, and spice, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a supple, elegant texture, fine tannins, and a great finish. It doesn't have the sheer density or power of, say, the 2010 or 2015, but it shines for its purity and balance and is a gorgeous Hermitage. While the Maison Bleue is more opulent and expansive, this is the long-distance runner. Give bottles 4-6 years at a minimum and enjoy over the following two decades. Drink 2027‑2048. Rated 95+. - Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com December, 2022

Glass-staining purple. Assertively perfumed cassis, cherry liqueur, fruitcake and floral aromas take on espresso, olive and smoky bacon accents with aeration. Juicy, chewy and energetic on the palate, offering densely packed, alluringly sweet black and blue fruit preserve, floral pastille, licorice and mocha flavors that become deeper and spicier as the wine slowly stretches out. The floral and mineral notes repeat emphatically on a wonderfully long, juicy and mineral dominated finish that's framed by building, well-wrought tannins. Rated (96-98). ‑ Josh Raynolds, vinous.com December, 2022

Showing even better than when I tasted it last year, the 2019 Hermitage La Chapelle is another ripe, powerful, sexy, and full-bodied example of this cuvée that brings classic La Chapelle gamey darker fruits as well as smoked meats, chocolate, sandalwood, and peppery spice. Full-bodied on the palate, it has good concentration, lots of ripeness, polished tannins, and a great, great finish. As with the 2018, it's opened up beautifully on the palate since I tasted it at the domaine and is a ripe, expansive, pure, beautiful Hermitage. Rated 97. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com June, 2022

Dark, vivid purple. Highly perfumed, mineral‑ and spice‑accented aromas of blackberry, cherry preserves, incense, olive and pungent flowers show superb clarity. Sappy and penetrating on the palate, offering deeply concentrated and sharply defined black and blue fruit preserve, candied violet, bitter chocolate and fruitcake flavors that become livelier as the wine opens up. Finishes wonderfully long with an emphatic, mineral cut, a repeating floral note and youthfully gripping tannins. Drink 2032‑2042. Rated 97. ‑ Josh Raynolds, vinous.com December, 2022

The 2018 Hermitage La Chapelle is a monster of a wine that brings tons of richness and depth while staying light on its feet and balanced. Lots of ripe red and blue fruits as well as flowers, smoked meat, licorice, and spice define the bouquet, and it's full-bodied, has a ripe, powerful, yet balanced mouthfeel, and a great finish. Given some previous showings of this wine, it was surprisingly accessible on this occasion, with a wealth of fruit, sweet tannins, and tons of character. It's a brilliant wine as well as a magical Hermitage. Rated 98. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com June, 2022

Opaque ruby. Displays powerful, highly perfumed aromas of black/blue fruit preserves, licorice, cola, baking spices and potpourri, along with an exotic suggestion of incense. Utterly stains the palate with intense blackberry, cherry, cassis, floral pastille and spicecake flavors that deliver a suave blend of weight and energy. Youthfully solid tannins add shape and grip to an extremely long, mineral- and floral-accented finish that shows outstanding clarity and dark fruit thrust. Drink 2028‑2040. Rated 96. ‑ Josh Raynolds, vinous.com March, 2020

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle showed incredibly well and is a brilliant wine that's reminiscent of a richer, denser 2011. Loads of sun‑kissed dark fruits, leather, graphite, and flowers, with ample spice and sandalwood nuances, give way to a full‑bodied, pure, deep, multi‑dimensional Hermitage that’s just about as good as it gets. The balance, length, and depth of this is something to behold, and while it unquestionably offers pleasure today, it has another 20‑30 years of prime drinking ahead of it. Drink 2022‑2052. Rated 99. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com June, 2022

Saturated violet color. Intensely perfumed ripe black/blue fruits, violet candy, exotic spices and smoky minerals show fine definition and lift. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet lively black raspberry, boysenberry, floral pastille and spicecake flavors and a late touch of licorice. Finishes smooth, sappy and extremely long, with chewy tannins lending shape and grip to resonating dark berry and floral notes. Drink 2026‑2038. Rated 95. ‑ Josh Raynolds, vinous.com March, 2020