just translucent dark ruby in color with fleshy berry aromas almost completely subsuming subtle notions of garrigue and rain-moistened limestone and hints of reglisse; ample and plush onto the palate, full in body, fully dry with stony underpinning and flavors a sublime reminiscence of the aromatic slate. Gigondas can be such a magnificent vehicle for the nature of southern Rhône Valley wines. This one hits the mark.

Founded by Roger Marès in the 1960s, the Mas des Bressades is located in the Costières de Nîmes, in the southern Rhône Valley of France. It extends across 45 hectares to the north of the Camargue, where the vines are planted at an elevation of 70 meters on what the French call galets roulés or rolled pebbles (medium sized stones, really) rolled and rounded by glacial action and the great Rhône River. The name «Bressades» comes from the Provençal patois and, fittingly, means to rock. While the estate has long been cultivated with respect for nature and the soil, in 2017 Cyril Marès requested certification in organic farming. After three years of conversion, it is now official. Produce of an inspired south of France mingling of 50% Roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc, 10% Marsanne and 10% Viognier, their Costières de Nîmes Blanc is a vivid pale platinum/yellow in color with aromas suggestive of white pepper, fresh salt sea breezes, cool green/gold berries and crisp cool melon blanc d'Antibe; both ample and bright with its mineral edge on keen display, mouthwateringly fresh and vibrant on the tongue and just oh so deliciously refreshing and quaffable.

Produce of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Cinsault from the typically stony soils of the Costières de Nîmes, a splendid somewhere between Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape and the Mediterranean Sea. Copper/pink with sunset orange reflections in color with discreet aromas that suggest a kiss of red berry, an underlying salt sea minerality and a touch more left to the imagination (Henry noted a blood orange‑like citrus quality); at once, both ample and minerally crisp on the tongue with a bursting berry fruit and a saline mouthwateringness. And while we all agreed that, given its volume, this is a rosé wine most useful at the dinner table, its sheer saline refreshingness is simply undeniable, too.

Alluringly rich, dense, ruby/purple in color to fuchsia at the edges with beguiling perfumed aromas that suggest sun, sea, berry and stone along with a hint of cracked black pepper; deep-pitched, pulverized stone and spicy fleshy berry on the tongue, potent, generous; and while we might tend to compare this to its Rhône Valley neighbor Châteauneuf-du-Pape (less than an hour's drive to the northeast), this remains more upfront, juicy and pliant if still a stony/mineral, potent red wine.

Produce of 90% Vermentino (known in the south of France as the tongue-trilling Rolle) and 10% Ugni Blanc planted to north‑facing plots on Quaternary limestone scree and Oligocene lacustrine limestone at approximately 300 mètres in elevation. And while we would love to describe this more typically in terms of flowers or other fruits, the wine really does speak more explicitly in terms of cool of the morning green/gold grapes grown in a very happy place, harvested carefully, then tended with care and attention in the cellar prior to bottling and being sent expeditiously here to beautiful downtown Austin, Texas from there just north of Provence proper, the Luberon, that is. The move to biodynamic viticulture at Château de Mille is clearly yielding a positive result (we've seen this before) giving the wines a heightened sense of place and personality, vivacity and push. This ultra‑fresh 2024 vintage Luberon Blanc is just bursting with life and enthusiasm and refreshingness, fully dry, of course, but also so deliciously wet and thirst‑quenching in nature.

Produce of about 60% Cinsault and 40% Syrah, Ecocert-certified organically‑farmed. The vines are planted to northern exposures at about 300 mètres in elevation on Quaternary limestone scree and Eocene clay/sand soils. Deliciously pale copper/pink in color with ultra‑fresh aromas, vibrant and alive, conjuring suggestion of fraises des bois, crisp, salted and just pithy mélon d'Antibes and crushed rocks volatilized by a brief summer's rainfall (Château de Mille themselves note airy aromas of citrus and white fruits, with a hint of fresh almond); vivid and crisp on the tongue with tantalizing berryish acidity and that mouthwatering salted pithy melon thing reverberating refreshingly and long. In that this was bottled only earlier this year, we recommend decanting this pink wine for best results.

Produce of a blend of about half each Syrah and Carignan fruit, certified organically‑farmed (moving to biodynamie this fine year of 2025); ruby/purple in color with fermentive aromas a mélange of berries red and blue along with (with some air) subtle suggestion of baking spices and candied orange peel; quite engaging and with excellent equilibrium on the tongue what with a nice sense of push/pull of nervy acidity and stony/earthy/berryish fruit; leaves the palate both satisfied and refreshed, refreshed and satisfied; just as any good and wholly over‑achieving everyday red wine should.

An inspired, if typical, southern Rhône Valley co-mingling of white grapes Grenache blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette and Bourboulenc from vines planted mainly in stony/marl soils and on clay/limestone slopes, porous soils with a steady and regular water supply; pristine fresh aromas suggest orchard fruits like peach and apricot (we remind ourselves — it's grapes; Chapoutier themselves note fennel and floral scents); at once cool, ample, rounded and fresh on the tongue, with a touch of grapeskin pith (probably from the Viognier) lending structure and nerve, finishing clean and fresh and cajoling another pull.

Produce of a preponderance of Grenache, along with Cinsault and Syrah, mainly from the right bank of the Rhône river, from vines planted in loess and sandy soils; harvest is carried out by machine in the cool of night to preserve the fresh aromatic qualities; light copper/pink in color with ultra‑fresh aromas suggestive of crisp cool melon and fraises des bois; crisp and fresh on the tongue with a touch of melon pith and a kiss of taut red berry lending a most welcome wisp of freshening acidity.

They say that 'the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain'. Well, we would note that 'grapes grown near the Rhône taste mainly of the stone' (the southern Rhône and limestone, that is); produce of a typical southern Rhône Valley blend of predominantly Grenache and Syrah from a variety of soils including pebble/clay, soils with layers of stone, stony clay terraces, stony silty‑sand; the fruit is vinified in concrete and stainless steel, following which the wine is then aged for 6 months also in concrete and stainless steel (read, no oak); dense, dark ruby fading gently at the very edges in color with aromas that are at once recognizable as southern Rhône Valley red (Grenache is such a great communicator of this terroir) what with the rather clear suggestion of earth and crushed limestone and just a whole panoply of dark ripe berry fruits; this follows onto the palate with a stony underpinning and gently crispy Grenache tannins that freshen everything onto the finish. Makes this taster wish it were winter … Oh well, we do have the air‑conditioning.

Domaine de la Becassonne is a small estate located near the village of Sorgue near Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape in the southern Rhône Valley. Planted in 1978, the property is solely dedicated to the production of white wine, a rarity in these parts. But with its cool micro‑climate and sandy, limestone soils the tiny property is ideal for the production of this fresh, expressive white wine, an inspired mingling of about 40% Roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc and 30% Clairette. The vines are pruned for low yields of around 40 hectolitres per hectare. Each varietal is harvested separately as it reaches optimal ripeness, then fermented in temperature‑controlled stainless steel. The wine is bottled in late winter to early Spring following the vintage. Pristine platinum/yellow in color with ultra-fresh if gently discreet pre-Alpine aromas suggestive of orange blossom and cool ripe melon (Brunel themselves note tropical fruits); at once vibrant and delicately mineral, round, supple and caressing (tactile, to be sure) on the tongue; simply superb southern Rhône Valley white wine and splendid value at its price.

The home of Andre Brunel is also the site of the vineyards for his Côtes‑du‑Rhône Cuvée Sommelongue. The estate is 10 kilomètres north of the village of Orange, adjacent to Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape. Cuvée Sommelongue refers to the long thin parcel of vineyard from which this typical southern Rhône Valley blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre is hand‑harvested. The vines are on average 30 years in age and are planted to typical clay/limestone soils over a gravelly subsoil which allows for ideal drainage following rain events. The fruit is picked late after achieving 14% plus potential natural alcohol, destemmed and vinified in tank, yielding a medium‑full red wine with ripe, juicy cherry and berry fruit with soft tannins and hints of the Provençal garrigue and spice; supple, silky even onto the palate, then demonstrating a gentle intensity of flavor propelled by fine ripe granular tannins that stretch it all out long, long, some kinda long and ultra fresh on the finish.

The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Le Vieux Donjon is a beautifully balanced, classic expression of the appellation, as well as this estate. It has a vivid purple hue, with ripe berry fruits, peppery herbs, floral, and sandalwood-like aromatics. Medium to full-bodied, it’s seamless and elegant on the palate, with ultra-fine tannins and a great finish. This is a brilliant wine that’s already drinking well but will evolve gracefully over the next 15-20 years. Drink 2025‑2040. Rated 95. - Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com February, 2025

The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Clos de Belvédère reveals enticing aromatics of honeysuckle, jasmine, pear, grapefruit, white peach, pineapple, pastry, ginger and a pinch of honey. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, oily-textured and showing good energy, the nish is long-lasting. Drink 2022‑2029. Rated 94. ‑ Nicolas Greinacher, vinous.com April, 2023

Produce of an exotic (if typical) southern Rhône Valley blend of white wine grapes: Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussane and Viognier, all, from 1½ hectares (about 3¾ acres) of vines an average age of 65 years and located on the northern, steeper and cooler part of the « Clavin ». The folks at la Vieille Julienne themselves note that 'the white grapes are very comfortable' in these marlstone and limestone soils. Deep yellow/gold in color with otherwise discreet aromas that conjure crushed limestone and a welcome hint of toastiness, like a lovingly bruised green apple baked in a pie; exotic, indeed, tactile, warming and rounded on the tongue, but then demonstrating a remarkable intensity of flavor, nerve and tension of old vines fruit impeccably farmed and then, from a winemaking standpoint, allowed to express its simply glorious environs. Henry noted that it would make a perfect accompaniment to a winter bouillabaisse or even duck confit. Mais, oui, absolument!

The 2022 Côtes Du Rhône Clavin is a little gem of a wine that has ripe darker cherry and blackberry fruits as well as some peppery, leather, and dried garrigue‑like aromatics. It's medium‑bodied, balanced, has fine tannins, and outstanding length. This is one of those wines that I always buy if I see it. Rated 90. - Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com October, 2024

I underrated the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Les Trois Source last year, and I think it's a solid step up from that earlier review. Pretty red and black fruits, pepper, sappy flowers, and that classic darker licorice character all define the aromatics, and it's medium-bodied, with a balanced, elegant mouthfeel and fine tannins. This classy, satisfying 2021 will evolve nicely over the coming 10-15 years if well stored. Drink 2024‑2039. Rated 93. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com October, 2024

The 2020 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Hauts‑Lieux comes from a cooler, higher elevation parcel and also includes slightly more Mourvedre, both of which give this cuvée a more firm, structured profile, especially in its youth. Awesome red, blue, and black fruits as well as black licorice, liquid violet, and peppery garrigue define the bouquet, and it's full‑bodied, with a great mid‑palate, ripe tannins, and a salty, almost bloody character on the finish. It shows the more charming nature of the 2020 vintage yet still deserves 4‑5 years of bottle age and will have over two decades of longevity. Drink 2026‑2048. Rated 97. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com November, 2022

Lastly, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Reserve is another magical wine, and I might have rated this cuvée a perfect score more than any other Southern Rhône. Unquestionably in the same realm as the 2017, 2016, 2010, 2005, 2003, and 2001, it has an incredible, full‑bodied, massive style that somehow stays perfectly balanced, with flawless integration of its fruit, tannins, acidity, and alcohol. Lots of red, blue, and black fruits, loamy earth, Asian spice, licorice, and violet nuances emerge from the glass, and it hits the palate with full‑bodied richness, building yet polished tannins, and a great, great finish. It’s a sexier, more opulent wine than the Les Hauts‑Lieux release yet has the same perfect tannins that are so rare to find in the vintage. This required at least 4‑5 years of bottle age and will drink brilliantly for 20‑25+ years. Drink 2025‑2052. Rated 100. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com November, 2021

The 2023 Côtes Du Rhône Coudoulet De Beaucastel Blanc is terrific, with a soft, supple, forward style in its pure white peach, quince, and honeyed flower aromas and flavors. It's medium‑bodied and has the vintage's purity as well as outstanding length. Rated 91. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com October, 2024

A blend of 30% Mourvèdre, 30% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 10% Cinsault, the 2022 Cotes du Rhone Coudoulet de Beaucastel exhales a delicate, perfumed bouquet of black cherries, spices, violets and spring flowers. It’s medium to full‑bodied, enveloping and layered with a juicy core of fruit, a tense mid‑palate and a fresh, ethereal finish. This is a consistent wine and a solid value. Drink 2024‑2034. Rated 91+. ‑ Yohan Castaing, robertparker.com September, 2024

The 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape is showing beautifully, with the sun‑kissed style of the vintage yet more depth and density than most in the vintage. Blackberries, Provençal garrigue, spice, and saddle leather all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with the classic elegance of the estate in its medium to full-bodied, layered, multi‑dimensional style. It's one of the wines of the vintage and will have two decades of longevity. Drink 2024‑2044. Rated 98. ‑ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com October, 2024

Showing even better than when I tasted it last year, the 2019 Hermitage La Chapelle is another ripe, powerful, sexy, and full-bodied example of this cuvée that brings classic La Chapelle gamey darker fruits as well as smoked meats, chocolate, sandalwood, and peppery spice. Full-bodied on the palate, it has good concentration, lots of ripeness, polished tannins, and a great, great finish. As with the 2018, it's opened up beautifully on the palate since I tasted it at the domaine and is a ripe, expansive, pure, beautiful Hermitage. Rated 97. - Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com June, 2022

The 2018 Hermitage La Chapelle is a monster of a wine that brings tons of richness and depth while staying light on its feet and balanced. Lots of ripe red and blue fruits as well as flowers, smoked meat, licorice, and spice define the bouquet, and it's full-bodied, has a ripe, powerful, yet balanced mouthfeel, and a great finish. Given some previous showings of this wine, it was surprisingly accessible on this occasion, with a wealth of fruit, sweet tannins, and tons of character. It's a brilliant wine as well as a magical Hermitage. Rated 98. - Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com June, 2022

Opaque ruby. Displays powerful, highly perfumed aromas of black/blue fruit preserves, licorice, cola, baking spices and potpourri, along with an exotic suggestion of incense. Utterly stains the palate with intense blackberry, cherry, cassis, floral pastille and spicecake flavors that deliver a suave blend of weight and energy. Youthfully solid tannins add shape and grip to an extremely long, mineral- and floral-accented finish that shows outstanding clarity and dark fruit thrust. Drink 2028‑2040. Rated 96.  Josh Raynolds, vinous.com March, 2020

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle showed incredibly well and is a brilliant wine that's reminiscent of a richer, denser 2011. Loads of sun-kissed dark fruits, leather, graphite, and flowers, with ample spice and sandalwood nuances, give way to a full-bodied, pure, deep, multi-dimensional Hermitage that’s just about as good as it gets. The balance, length, and depth of this is something to behold, and while it unquestionably offers pleasure today, it has another 20-30 years of prime drinking ahead of it. Drink 2022‑2052. Rated 99. - Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com June, 2022

Saturated violet color. Intensely perfumed ripe black/blue fruits, violet candy, exotic spices and smoky minerals show fine definition and lift. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet lively black raspberry, boysenberry, floral pastille and spicecake flavors and a late touch of licorice. Finishes smooth, sappy and extremely long, with chewy tannins lending shape and grip to resonating dark berry and floral notes. Drink 2026‑2038. Rated 95.  Josh Raynolds, vinous.com March, 2020