2021 Vintage Burgundies of Louis Jadot

2021 was a year which challenged Burgundian vignerons in ways few have ever seen. First, the plain facts: in the Côte d’Or yields for whites were ¼ of a normal crop, and for reds ⅓ of a normal crop. And in Chablis and the Mâconnais yields were just ½ of normal. Following two small harvests this now leaves the markets dramatically short of Burgundy wines. The weather events were of course enormously challenging and allude directly to the continuing effects of climate change. But rather than any single measurable extreme it was instead the volatility and timing of multiple events that challenged the region. The trend to earlier budbreak, severe frost, violent storms, hydric stress, and heat stress is becoming the expected norm, and it’s a triumph that good wines were produced at all.

The determining events of 2021 are well known. First the mild winter in February and March encouraged the vines to become active earlier than usual. Budbreak was then well advanced when severe cold arrived from April 5th through April 9th. Damage to the vines was compounded by ensuing snow. Cool temperatures continued to stunt growth throughout the months of April and May. June brought a respite and flowering occurred quickly. July brought storms and frequent rains complicating work in the vineyards and encouraging fungal diseases. Thankfully August was drier, and September brought clear skies and heat. Still, vines needed time to catch up and the harvest took place in the 2nd half of September, requiring a rigorous selection. However, comparing 2021 to the last 30 years shows us a vintage almost normal in terms of total moisture, hours of sunshine and average temperature. These drastic low yields were directly related to the severity and timing of events.

Despite the frequent setbacks wines were produced with a surprising generosity and delicacy. Whites in particular saw the most diminished yields yet seem focused and vibrant. Reds are developing with pretty floral and fruit aromas, and supple tannins. To be sure this is an unusual vintage that takes its place in a past decade of unique expressions. 2021 will be remembered as a vintage that tested vignerons and required absolute attention to every detail. Ever looking on the bright side, the co-president of Le Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne (BIVB), M. François Labet of the Château de Clos Vougeot, asserted that « small is beautiful ». ‑ paraphrased from the Maison Louis Jadot 2021 Vintage En Primeur Barrel Tasting presentation